RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I just don't trust lacquers or, perhaps more apropriately, myself using them. I've had a bottle of Vallejo Matt Acrylic Varnish for four years, and it remains unopened, for fear of giving that hard won paint finish that awful cataract-like cloudy sheen.

Are these lacquer/varnish clear coats really necessary? If so, why? That's my question.

I've been happy just adding acrylic (thinned paint washes) to acrylic coats- carefully, of course. I even found that whilst Tamiya Panel Line washes can eat their way through certain plastics , or make them brittle, there's no problem applying them to acrylic painted surfaces- yet. \ I'm sure the best laid models o' Mice an' Men have aft gang aglay, leaving the distraight modeller with a very long face, a cloudy or brittle model, and the urgent need for a stiff Scotch, or six.
https://www.tamiya.com/english/products ... /index.htm
What's the problem in leaving the model to weather 'naturally' in several coats of acrylic colour? is there one?

Because they stop various layers reacting and provide extra durability.

Make sure you test before, dont use when its damp and you should be fine. If it blooms get a hair drier and heat the bu@@er up.

If using hairspray chipping ive found it can be reactivated some time later and a clear layer stops this.

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Also helps your pin washes to flow better and provides a better base for decals. I never used to use them but recently I have and have never looked back.

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Hi,
Think of it as a sealer to protect the paint, but no its not absolutely required, you may just have to keep touching the paint up if you dont, if as Tom says you have used hairspray just dont ever get it wet.
BUT please do not use a hair dryer to warm it up, they are made of plastic that WILL MELT AND DEFORM if you get it slightly too hot, its only thin thermo plastic, and it will go off VERY QUICKLY.
Sub

Sub wrote:Hi,
Think of it as a sealer to protect the paint, but no its not absolutely required, you may just have to keep touching the paint up if you dont, if as Tom says you have used hairspray just dont ever get it wet.
BUT please do not use a hair dryer to warm it up, they are made of plastic that WILL MELT AND DEFORM if you get it slightly too hot, its only thin thermo plastic, and it will go off VERY QUICKLY.
Sub

Some common sense required with what you heat!

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My Tamiya Matilda and Tamiya Panzer 4 still look as good colour wise as the day I painted them 48 years ago, they never had a protective coat, but they have hardly ever been handled.

For outdoor RC model protective layer is recommended if you dont want big scratches on paint. For static models not so much.

Thanks lads!. I'm working on the Tamiya Jagdpanther currenly, and really don't want to mess the finish up. Previously, I've never bothered much about the occasional scratch or stain from outdoor use.
After all, that's how real tanks end up 'weathered' in the first place. I don't suppose, that painters at regimental German depots, applied a protective 'clear coat' to the camo they were spraying on their steeds.Hmmm.. but, maybe they did? Where's David Byrden when you need him?
Thanks, Tom, for the tips on overcoming the dreaded white bloom on the varnish. I had that once on a guitar, and never wanted to have it happen again.
Yep, of course , I would use the hair dryer with the utmost caution.
With my glasses on, I can also distinguish between the hairdryer and my paint stripping heat gun (they really are quite simliar ). A visiting friend (true story), almost got them mixed up after a shower...

I've also ordered some Peddinghaus decals for the job, figuring they'd be a tad better than the ones supplied by Tamiya. I'll try brushing some of the Vallejo onto an old cast off project, and see what happens. Time and again, people say that humidity and temperature are crucial factors for a good outcome (or a blubbling inducing disaster.. )

Incidentally, does anyone with an in-depth knowledge of the German Tank industry know whether a protective coating was applied to camouflage schemes?
Here's what I have:
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product ... c-varnish/
and here's a discussion on the product:
https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/ind ... t-varnish/

I use Peddinghaus water slide decals but they are not pre-cut so have to be cut out of the sheet. This leaves them with a thick cut edge which shows. Using decal softner can help but a coat of clear varnish sorts the problem. I use Tamiyas TS varnishes, various finishes, but always indoors in s warm, dry environment and it always works well and keeps well for years.

I have used enamel based washes on Tamiya acrylic varnishes without issues too.

Started using Army Painter anti shine, done my Panther F with it. Just let the paint harden up for a few days , had a little reaction with a touch up i fixed a few hours earlier.
A review https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHVmMVb0HTY