RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I'm editing this as i go along
Basically the haya 6.3 is a rebranded heng long 6.1 so should be exactly the same.
What you will need is a single channel 5V relay.

loop the microswitch cn6 a shorter wire would be better


The xenon flash has 3 wires red positive + , blue negative - and black positive signal. Remove the 3 pins from the plug they are in and put the red and blue wire into a 2 pin plug and plug into cn2 red on the left.


The black wire will go into com on the 5v relay i'm using a dual channel relays as i cant find my single 1


To provide the power for the positive signal take a wire from led 1 + and plug into NO on the 5v relay


To power and provide signal for the 5V relay you can use cn10 as the bb gun is no longer in use and is activated when you fire the gun .The negative wire will need to be looped to the ground and signal on the 5V relay and the positive will go to positive on the relay

So when you fire the cannon cn10 will activate the relay which will connect COM with NO sending a positive signal to the xenon flash

Nice bit of ingenuity, John .. There's a 5v relay 9single channel) on Amazon for only £5.79. Doubtless, they can be found even cheaper than that- but given that high voltage is going to be involved, a tried and tested unit will be the one to go for.
I have a couple of the Xenon flash units and the 6.1s MFU, so, with your improvised circuit, I should be able to make my Comet light the evening skies

The negative wire will need to be looped to the ground and signal on the 5V relay

This sentence isn’t clear to me. How I understand it is the negative wire from cn10 goes to the negative lead on the back of the relay and then from the negative lead to the signal lead and then from the signal lead back to cn10 negative wire. Can someone please clarify this for my dumbass.

Never mind, got it working.

Just did this mod to my T-72. Gonna tackle it on my Haya Chieftain next. I made adapter cables to make all the connections because I haven't decided which aftermarket board I'm going to put in these two tanks yet. I'd like to keep them both working tanks for a bit before making them non-working projects...

Hi John,

I'm using the TK-7.1

It is not clear to me why black can not connected to Led1 +

On the 7.1 led1 will be activated when a shot is done


Please let me know

Best regards

Nic

Good morning,
Unless I'm mistaken, it seems that you omitted the "introduce yourself" post before asking your question?

Wondering the same thing as Nalk... any answers out there? See my recent post on this same topic: viewtopic.php?t=37450

OK, so I've done some testing, and didn't even fry a single flash unit! As long as you feed 5V power to it from the board (either from an open terminal or split off from one for the fan, for example) then the 'trigger' signal is merely a connection to the positive lead of the same power source. Must have a common ground to work, so you can't pull power from a spare battery... it has to be the same one providing the + and - leads to the flash unit. So, a 3-wire high-intensity LED unit CAN be added to your 2-wire tank! (Not sure if you can use 7.2V instead of 5V tho)

Would a 6v feed (from CN11 on a TK7.0) fry the board/xenon light? Also would the trigger from LED 1 (Launch flashing light) work as the trigger ?
Thanks