RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

To return to the thread,
A very helpful video Mick that resides in my "Favourite's" box.

Thank you for sharing. I'm sure we can all take something away from that video.

One thing I have little to no experience with is solder PE. Maybe slightly different topic. I just picked up a Aber kit for a build that in progress and on such small little pieces the instructions wanted me to solder latch handles. Maybe my eyes are getting old and not such steady hand but I opted for CA glue instead

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The secret to soldering Photo-Etch is to use a Butane Torch and Liquid Solder,
Clean the area then Paint the liquid Solder along the area needing to be soldered then "Wipe" the Torch Flame across the solder and job done,
Practicing on scrap PE first will pay you with good results.
Dremel make a nice Torch,
Fryolux Paint is my choice of Liquid Solder,
The Solder is expensive but a 125 gramme tub will last forever.
WARNING It is VERY TOXIC. Keep it away from any animal including Human Beings.

jarndice wrote:The secret to soldering Photo-Etch is to use a Butane Torch and Liquid Solder,
Clean the area then Paint the liquid Solder along the area needing to be soldered then "Wipe" the Torch Flame across the solder and job done,
Practicing on scrap PE first will pay you with good results.
Dremel make a nice Torch,
Fryolux Paint is my choice of Liquid Solder,
The Solder is expensive but a 125 gramme tub will last forever.
WARNING It is VERY TOXIC. Keep it away from any animal including Human Beings.

Excellent! Thank you for the tip!

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I hate hate HATE soldering! The waiting for the iron to heat up, the mercury fumes, the heat, ugh! I found this stuff that's an actual wire glue, called, appropriately enough, Wire Glue. No heat no fumes, just coat your joint with this glue stuff and let dry. But you do need to make sure the wires can't move at all since it takes an hour or more to dry.

great video! Thanks for posting.

Ksnfme wrote:great video! Thanks for posting.

You like anyone else that benefited from it are welcome

IMO the secret to soldering PE is the "precise" application of the heat and properly cleaned attaching surfaces. By precise heat application I mean either the amount or location or both in most instances.

Soldering with a Resistance soldering unit allows for both. I use Tweezers almost exclusively when soldering thin or PE components, it is like "Spot Welding". The heat is quick and localized.

When soldering larger pieces requiring a torch then it is about clamping the pieces together so that they can not move then applying the heat as precisely and quickly as possible especially if working with complex, multi piece structures.

The type of solder also affects the outcome! Silver based for structural components that "might" be stressed. Softer solder for pieces that will not be affected by stress.

Electrical connections should be made with a thin, rosin core solder using the smallest about of heat possible. Wicking of wire should be avoided and completed joints clean with a alcohol based solvent. You "should" have a soldering station that allows for temperature control. Smaller connections needing less heat that larger connections. If you are exclusively soldering smaller gauge wire then a constant temp iron will do.

First and foremost ALL surfaces need to be CLEAN regardless of the type of soldering you are doing.

I know it sounds expensive and complicated...after we are not going to the Moon. However we expect or "toys" to do as we command when we command. So, it is like going to the Moon after all!

Barry

I do a lot of soldering

thanks, nice and clear video

I've been soldering for years and although pretty neat have made some boobs over the years. I have twice picked the iron up by the hot end for instance. Now that makes the air blue I can tell you.