RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hello!
Recently introduced myself, I have a Heng Long Challenger 2 version 6 I am modding.

I have recently purchased new metal drive and return wheels - the originals I purchased wouldn’t fit as I believe the screw is meant for the plastic mounts not metal as the version 6 has - and the bearings on those return rollers were too small to accept the screws already on the tank - so eventually found a set with correct screw.

Anyhow, I have also purchased a set of metal tracks with the rubber pads - these are some 2mm wider than standard tracks, so on the drive wheels I inserted a small washer. However, this now pushes the edge of the track out and fouls the skirts on the tank. The only option I have now is to cut down the drive shafts.
Has anyone else experienced this issue? I have metal gearboxes with bearings on them, so not sure if there are replacement drive shafts to suit I could use/modify?

Cheers

If the upgraded tracks are for the Challenger then why have you decided that adding washers would be needed.
I assume you tried the tracks on the Tank without washers and if so what made you decide that you know better than the maker of the tracks ? Are you sure the tracks are the right way round ?
My very first Heng Long Panzer 4 needed washers behind the rollers but it was not a decision I took lightly, It proved to be the correct choice,
Fortunately Things have improved in the 1/16 Tank makers world which is why I am surprised that such a modification appears to be needed.

The drive wheel is split into two, with anti slip rings. The tracks do not fit the sprocket unless a small washer is installed between both halves of the drive wheel.
Without the washer the tracks are a smidgen wider than the space on the drive wheels. With the washer it works, without it doesn’t work.
My current issue is with the mixture of the tracks being wider and the washer the outer edge at the rear fouls with the tank skirt - and it’s only the rear - hence query on whether other drive shafts available? Or do I just dremmel it down?

I am not trying to be obtruce but if you have the correct sprocket and the correct tracks then there surely is no need for a washer.
Some part of the running gear is non standard and needs identifying and replacing with the correct item.
I do think you are trying to fix a problem from the wrong end.
Start at the beginning(Compare it with another Challenger if you can) and do not move on until you are certain that all is well and only then examine the next part of the running gear.

I would NOT cut down the drive shafts!
I agree with Jarndice, there is something else that is wrong.

Can you post a picture of the tracks and drive sprockets you are using?

Barry

viewtopic.php?f=41&t=27533

The above poster had the same issue on track width / sprocket - the aftermarket tracks with rubber pads are a smidgen too wide for the sprockets they also do - DKLM?
Which requires small washers inserted between the two halves of the sprocket. This in my case, pushes the sprocket outer edge out a tad which then fouls on the skirts.
I believe it’s more burrs on the metal tracks which stop them from joining in the sprocket correctly - the washer makes more room.

Will try take photos in a bit.

Right, no photo hosting - so can’t put photos up right now.

Massive part of my issue appears that the tracks have a lot of burrs on the edges that would make contact with the sprocket instead of the track sitting correctly, so instead of sprocket teeth sliding into gaps on tracks they are hitting burrs and lifting the track - so in theory if I clean the burrs up, the need for the washers is gone, plus should fix issue of sprocket / track fouling the rear skirts.
There is also no chamfer on the teeth to guide track into place on inside faces of the teeth- may add a little to make the tracks ‘sit’ into the sprocket better. Strangley, there is a chamfer on outside for aesthetics - plus even heng long standard metal sprocket appears to have it? (Which is too narrow to fit these dklm tracks).
Cheers

Are these the tracks you are using?



If so do you have the DKLM Sprockets?

I have the above, plus sprockets. It all works if I undo the screw holding the rear sprocket on a few turns - I’ve found my small file set, so will be filling off the burrs over the next week that should then cure things. No washers involved!

Cheers