RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Has anyone else had an issue using LIPO with the MFU/DMD units? I can't get it programmed.

Couldn't agree more with a military observation than the one made by General Slim. This would also apply to politicians in a crisis; and us mere mortals in crisis situations. Thing is, some individuals have a habit of coming up with the right actions. Rommel was a good example; but he did benefit from intelligence access to British troop movements, and displacements, courtesy of a US Colonel, and a cracked cypher, in the US Embassy in Cairo.

As for the battery issue, I note that Tamiya routinely specify, and recommend, 7.2v Ni-CD batteries. Do your LiPos have a higher rating? I might be that the control units are sensitive to any voltage much higher than 7.2. (e.g. 7.4v - 12vdc). What I've noted, is that when using NiMH batteries rated at 7.2v, capacity is crucial. When firing the cannon, for example, the MFU seems to take way longer to recover with a 7.2v NiMh battery that has a 2000mAh rating, than one with a high capacity, such as a 3300, or 5500mah. Personally, I don't trust myself with LiPo units- given the fire risk- and stick with NiMh, but many here do swear by the benefits of LiPo. I just don't want to wake up medium-rare.

My own experience has been that whilst the DMD ESC drive units function very well, the MFU units are fickle and somewhat disappointing. This will summon the spirit of Rad, no doubt, but I'll agree with him that the electronics packages are somewhat dated now- before he magically appears.
Being able to fine-tune the TX is also important. Lately, I've found that the Tamiya/Carson 6-Ch tx is way superior to the old Futuba (Tamiya branded) 4YWD 4-ch TX. Many, of course, use their own state of the art TX's to tune their steeds up.

Viscount Slim was walking across Kensington Gardens in the early evening,
The elderly gentleman was accosted by a mugger who very shortly afterwards found himself on his back and suffering some discomfort
Old soldiers never die and can always administer a good kicking when needed

My training included the instruction
"When you have to make a decision don't f*ck about, Make the decision even if it turns out to be the wrong one ,Because DELAY will get you and your command killed "

I use Lipos in the modified Plastic hulls (Cut out Battery box) of my PZ4s because there is not enough space with all the vertical struts getting in the way for a decent sized Ni-mh as well as an aftermarket MFU and a receiver and a smoker,
The metal hull PZ4s have more internal space which allows me the choice between the two.

Urgh, you mentioned tamiya and radio in the same post. I will visit you tonight.

Tamiya recommends those batteries because those were used back in the origin of times when the fire was discovered, the wheels were invented and the tamiya kits were created.
Vast majority of people seems to use 6cell nimhs batteries, which are 7,2v rated but when fully loaded, are 9ish volts Nobody had ever an issue with them.
Some other guys use 2s lipo batteries, when fully loaded, are 8,4volts Also nobody ever had an issue with them, unless of overdischarging or the problems that the lipo brings themselves, but no problem at all with tamiya electronics per se. But voltage related, they are safer than the NIMHs. Of course dont plug a 3S lipo, that will fry the electronics.
The reason Tamiya does not recommend lipos, besides they refuse to update themselves, is the same as why Erik-Taigen-Imex recommends Nimhs, and that is because most potential buyers are either children or people with no knowledge at all in batteries, and last thing they want is people setting fire to the house because they overdischarge or charged wrong a lipo. That is it all, don't look for more reasons like volts and amperes, that is the only reason and they even admitted that.

Said that I have used Nihms, lipos, and even my own made li-ion batteries in tamiya tanks with tamiya electronics with no problem at all.

Roy, the reason of why it took more time to recharge the flash has nothing to do with the ampers rating of your battery, but the quality, the age, and the discharge capacity of it.

There is a "Batteries" entry on my website https://radindustries.wordpress.com/201 ... batteries/ that could bring some light to some. It will be updated with a step by step how to make your own battery guide as soon as I receive a new soldering iron next week.

Rad_Schuhart wrote:Urgh, you mentioned tamiya and radio in the same post. I will visit you tonight.

Tamiya recommends those batteries because those were used back in the origin of times when the fire was discovered, the wheels were invented and the tamiya kits were created.
Vast majority of people seems to use 6cell nimhs batteries, which are 7,2v rated but when fully loaded, are 9ish volts Nobody had ever an issue with them.
Some other guys use 2s lipo batteries, when fully loaded, are 8,4volts Also nobody ever had an issue with them, unless of overdischarging or the problems that the lipo brings themselves, but no problem at all with tamiya electronics per se. But voltage related, they are safer than the NIMHs. Of course dont plug a 3S lipo, that will fry the electronics.
The reason Tamiya does not recommend lipos, besides they refuse to update themselves, is the same as why Erik-Taigen-Imex recommends Nimhs, and that is because most potential buyers are either children or people with no knowledge at all in batteries, and last thing they want is people setting fire to the house because they overdischarge or charged wrong a lipo. That is it all, don't look for more reasons like volts and amperes, that is the only reason and they even admitted that.

Said that I have used Nihms, lipos, and even my own made li-ion batteries in tamiya tanks with tamiya electronics with no problem at all.

Roy, the reason of why it took more time to recharge the flash has nothing to do with the ampers rating of your battery, but the quality, the age, and the discharge capacity of it.

There is a "Batteries" entry on my website https://radindustries.wordpress.com/201 ... batteries/ that could bring some light to some. It will be updated with a step by step how to make your own battery guide as soon as I receive a new soldering iron next week.

Ahhh...the 'Tamiya' name works a bit like 'Open Sesame', or Aladdin summoning the Genie by rubbing his magic lamp (that's LAMP! ). Thanks, Rad, and I hope I won't deviate the thread by saying what a useful Web resource "radindustries' has become!. Keep it up . I thought the slow recovery problem (after shooting) might be to do with slow capacitors in the MFU's PCB.

43rdRecceReg wrote:
Ahhh...the 'Tamiya' name works a bit like 'Open Sesame', or Aladdin summoning the Genie by rubbing his magic lamp (that's LAMP! ). Thanks, Rad, and I hope I won't deviate the thread by saying what a useful Web resource "radindustries' as become!. Keep it up . I thought the slow recovery problem (after shooting) might be to do with slow capacitors in the MFU's PCB.

Thanks, glad you like the web
About the time it tooks to recover, have you tried setting the MFU as a light tank? it should charge super fast if you do it.
Anyway those DMD+MFU units seem to be reliable enough except the flash area, which seems to fail sooner or later. Never happened to me but I have ready many cases, so maybe your unit is beginning to fail. If that is the case, it seems it is easily repairable.

Rad_Schuhart wrote:

43rdRecceReg wrote:
Ahhh...the 'Tamiya' name works a bit like 'Open Sesame', or Aladdin summoning the Genie by rubbing his magic lamp (that's LAMP! ). Thanks, Rad, and I hope I won't deviate the thread by saying what a useful Web resource "radindustries' as become!. Keep it up . I thought the slow recovery problem (after shooting) might be to do with slow capacitors in the MFU's PCB.

Thanks, glad you like the web
About the time it tooks to recover, have you tried setting the MFU as a light tank? it should charge super fast if you do it.
Anyway those DMD+MFU units seem to be reliable enough except the flash area, which seems to fail sooner or later. Never happened to me but I have ready many cases, so maybe your unit is beginning to fail. If that is the case, it seems it is easily repairable.

This unit has only been fired 7 times, Rad, and so this would be a very poor case of 'bangs for bucks', if it's beginning to fail already

Hello
The Tamiya flash,works on the same principle as that of caméra ( disposable ) the principe is an electronic assembly and the charge of a capacitor of high capacity,in order to abtain a tension 300 volts ( of memory )for it is therefore nécessary to allow it time betwen 2 shots it is also very possible that the voltage and the capacity of battery decreasing according to the operating time ? The flash is less effective,the use of lipos,I find the analysis of Rad quite right
PS:.Désoled my English no perfect

Principe fonctionary,the Flash
http://schema-montage-electronique.blog ... nique.html
Désoled ,in French

I found this from the US Department of Defense https://www.defense.gov/observe/photo-g ... 001183823/