RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi folks Newbie here.
I have a four year old Taigen Tiger I, little used, but the thing that's bugging me about it is the control joystick. There is so little "feel" to it and very little movement is needed before the tank is off like a rocket! It is so hard to achieve the minimal, s-l-o-o-o-w authentic movement of the real thing.
Is this a common problem and if so, how can I finesse the control and reduce the stick sensitivity, please?
Thanks.
Baz

Hi, you basically answered the why by stating the tank is four years old. Which is how long you've had it, the tank could date as older.
The older Heng Long and Taigen tanks back then were very similar with their control boards that hardly had any proportional speed control, if any, plus they only had a 39 to 1 gear ratio, which just added to that lack of control.
But all is not lost, you can purchase after market gearboxes with a more sensible gear ratio, and a much better control board.
It just depends on the money you're willing to fork out on it.

Many thanks.
I was hoping that some kind of modification to the handheld control box would be possible, without touching the gearboxes. If I am EXTREMELY careful, moving the joystick the tiniest fraction of an inch, I can get the sort of initial movement that should be normal. Instead it's off like a Scalextric racing car!
Can you recommend a control box or somewhere I can start looking, please? Thanks.

Sadly the type of electronics you have, is only compatible with itself. After market hand controllers (Transmitters/Tx) won't work with the Multi Function Unit (MFU) or its built in receiver (Rx) in your tank.
The newer versions of your tank are a little better to drive, but not that much.
The best improvement you could do is purchase one of the IBU or Clark MFU's and a FlySky controller with a stick return conversion, with the appropriate receiver.
Even doing this the cheapest way possible, you won't regret it, the drive is far superior, even with the standard gearboxes.

Very many thanks, Son of a gun-ner.
That at least gives me somewhere to start.
Cheers!

Can you post a photo of the gearboxes? Back then you might have gotten "3:1" zinc gears, and if that's the case, a swap to the "4:1" will most likely fix the problem and give you the control you're looking for. I just got a new PIII and it has the 3:1 gears and I swear it's like a rabbit. Waaaay too fast, very difficult to get good slow speed action out of it. I have a very special set of gearboxes to fix the PIII, OOP brass dual-ratio gearboxes. You say it's a Tiger, how much of it is metal? If it's an all plastic tiger with "3:1" GBs there's nothing wrong with the TX.

Gary, I've got about the same age Taigen T34 with the "4:1" gearboxes, and the slow speed turning isn't up to much, when I try to do a slow speed turn, I nearly always have to try to correct it as it turns too suddenly and too much because it's still overly sensitive with the older electronics.

Thanks, Max. I'll get it out and photograph it.
How can you tell the difference between 3:1 and 4:1 gearboxes?

Just reading through this thread so k thought I'd throw in my twopeneth!

The gearbox does make a difference but l reckon a later model mfu will help even more. The proportional speed controllers in the earlier models were a bit notchy to say the least but now recent ones offer seamless speed progression and thus smooth control. Both Taigen, Torro and Heng Long have come on in buckets with their recent releases. Try Forgebear for advice, parts and a great service for these and gearboxes. I'm sure Mick will agree!

Bazbro wrote:Thanks, Max. I'll get it out and photograph it.
How can you tell the difference between 3:1 and 4:1 gearboxes?

Basically it's meant to be the number of gear trains within the box. Usually a vendor states whether a Taigen gear box is 3, 4 or 5 to one. Personally I would like to see the actual gear ratio stated with each type of box.

And yes, I would agree that Heng Long and Taigen have improved over the last few years. But, as someone that once stated that there was no need for the added expense of an aftermarket board, but ended up getting one. . . . There is still a big difference with control, and I now have a small collection of after market boards