RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I for some reason love the technical upgrading of my used RC Tanks.

My KV-1 and many other projects are awaiting some soft silicone 18ga wire for making flexible battery connections. So I decided why wait and jumped into this one.
So I decided to rebuild the Sherman! (My only Sherman, once belonging to a CanAm RC Tank Club member, Kyle).

The magnetic mounts and basic gutting was already in place.
But I removed the plexiglass plate installed as well as the copious amounts of silicone sealant holding the plate in.


First thing, my good buddy DGSSelkirk installed a set of Mato adjustable idlers onto the hull. Thanks Dean.
Next Sherman, I'll do it myself. (Cause If this works as nice as I hope, I'll likely end up with 3 of them...)


Keeping the HL Blue's in the tank. Being mainly a plastic tank means it will be light and I want to see this thing run


The cleaned up and epoxied chassis hull. Took 4oz of mixed epoxy to fill the entire lower hull. (Under the motors as well.)
N.B.: Make sure to plug all the small holes or use thick epoxy mixture. I had about 1/2 oz leak out through the front holes by the bogeys. What a PITA to clean.


3D printed Clark TK-60S tray with risers and fan cut outs (Offset space for battery.)


Twin cooling fans (will be replaced with 6V versions for higher air flow). One for the FETs, the other for the audio amplifier heat sink.
To be powered when the entire vehicle is powered up.


Showing the position of the fans related to the TK-60 board.


First Print is a Perfect fit... Debating if I want to make the tray into a removable piece (Velcro base/screw down, or permanently mounted...
If permanent, I'll need to find a different fan mount system for replacements.


Showing the proposed location of the main power switch and the receiver (right side sponson).


The dilemma... Try out the Twin 5W speakers and add in a volume control potentiometer

OR


Squeeze in the 15W Speaker and run it at 10 all the time! Volume control is for sissies!


Showing Battery placement when final assembly will be finished.


Battery and all lower hull wiring will be for the most part even with the base of the hull sponsons.

Only run it at 10? Mine goes all the way up to 11. . . .

I shall by-pass the vote because my choice in a small hull would be a pair of Mato oblong speakers.
They take up very little space and allow the engine bay to properly reproduce the sound from all corners, On sale @ www.forgebeartanks.com
About £12.

If Tamiya does one thing good is speakers. All of them are big and with a huge resonance box, which is the most important part of the speaker. Tamiya uses 5w speaker with resonance box andnthose are loud enough to make your ears bleed and can be heard from far, far away.

Using twin speakers has no sense, and that bigger speaker needs a resonance box. Speakers are like spanish guitars, with nonresonance box are almost mute.

And you should be able to adjust the volume with your radio.

Notwithstanding the speaker debate, and Rad's customary robust advice, I'll just praise your re-imagining (with the aid of 3D tech) of the tank's internal real estate. That's an eyecatching support frame you've created there.
Innovations, and subsequent later refinements
make this a cutting edge hobby

43rdRecceReg wrote:Notwithstanding the speaker debate, and Rad's customary robust advice, I'll just praise your re-imagining (with the aid of 3D tech) of the tank's internal real estate. That's an eyecatching support frame you've created there.
Innovations, and subsequent later refinements
make this a cutting edge hobby

I will go along with that, I like the idea of blowing cooling air ACROSS the board instead of over it

A pair of small M2 screws to hold the power switch frame into place. Had to remove a bogie to install.


2nd gen fan/TK-60/Battery compartment tray epoxied into place. As well as the new angled speaker box.


Fans in place on new tray. New retaining method. Zip ties. Those will allow for replacements if a fan fails.
Yes those are bolt on tie-down bars that are screwed into the tray itself. Will allow for very clean routing in the lower hull.


Angled 63mm 15W speaker box with a mounting point for a standard potentiometer volume control.
Only 2 screws in place so far as the other two will secure a speaker grill guard (maybe use all four...)


TK-60 board installed. Drive motor connections installed.


A close up of the speaker wire routing. Using the bars to ensure clean routing.
Bars were added to the design to keep the tray print simpler. Plus can be used to mount other items.


The twin fans with the TK-60 board. One will blow across the FET's, while the other blows on the Sound Amp heat sink.
There is also a gap of 3-4mm below the board to allow air to flow across it as well which the fans are positioned to do.


Showing the basic overall layout with the power switch frame installed. Need to still finish speaker connection to TK-60.
Install the volume control. Complete the power circuit with fan tie-in (waiting for silicone sheathed wire).


Deciding which way I'll have batteries mounted. Cable across speaker...


Leaning to this way with power cable across the front.

Hello
Question svp
If you want,or get the two pieces ( metal ) of the tensionning wheels ??
Thank you in advance, for réponse

Jofaur86 wrote:Hello
Question svp
If you want,or get the two pieces ( metal ) of the tensionning wheels ??
Thank you in advance, for réponse

I am assuming that you are looking for a source of these adjustable idlers.
They are Mato 1/16 Sherman Metal Idler Wheels with Adjustable Tensioner
One source is http://www.matomart.com/prodview.php?p=2910

Helo
Thank your for réponse