Challenger 2 custom tension mod.
Posted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:24 pm
Greetings to all.
New to all this but I thought I might show a modification I did to sort my 2018 Challenger 2 tank track issues. An ongoing annoyance between track tension and a slightly angled idler wheel (which didn't help with the track tension).
This is for a 2.4G 4.3 version with metal track and drive wheel/idler. Tracks kept on coming off so I upgraded to newer idler and drive wheel (with the swish plates) but the issue was still there and clearly to do with track tension, especially on the left side (looking forward from the drivers hatch) which was drooping quite a lot.
All told it wasn't being used much as a result.
Quarantine Happened so not much else to do! The idea of cutting up my (quite expensive) tank was a bit strange but hey, why not!
Main thoughts are to utilise the same sort of system as the actual tank to try and blend in but using blocks to push the idler forwards a bit.
First idea to use a couple of links off an old bike chain to match the original layout; very close and too many hours spent trying to make it work but the chain link holes are just too far apart (about 4mm) so would cause drive/track impacts.
Long story short Mechano is exactly the right size and, with a couple of 3D printed filler parts, it works and seems to be holding out. What I did was:
1 Cut off the old one, and the "arm" behind it
2 File back the remaining bits level with the rest of the bracket (make sure this face is flat and not angled as this affects the idler angle)
3 Fill in the hollow in the moulded tension "barrel" with cut spru and glue
4 Cut the head off a suitable screw and glue axel into hole (you may need to drill it out a bit to add length)
5 Mechano strip cut down to 2 hole lengths (almost matches the size!)
6 Create filler strip and outer spacer
7 Make tension "blocks" to go between the old "arm" and new idler pivot
8 Put it all together
If only I knew all that before I started it would have saved hours!
Note; the existing "tensioning" system is hollow and I filled it as much as possible with cut up bits of plastic and glue to try and give the bolt something to hold on to. I ended up gluing the threaded part in after cutting the head off, to create the pivot.
I'm trying to add pictures but it does look very "stock" and the arm movement mimics the original, which is nice. The different size blocks push the arm forwards, increasing the tension.
Hopefully I have attached pictures but I'm new and don't know if I did things correctly!
New to all this but I thought I might show a modification I did to sort my 2018 Challenger 2 tank track issues. An ongoing annoyance between track tension and a slightly angled idler wheel (which didn't help with the track tension).
This is for a 2.4G 4.3 version with metal track and drive wheel/idler. Tracks kept on coming off so I upgraded to newer idler and drive wheel (with the swish plates) but the issue was still there and clearly to do with track tension, especially on the left side (looking forward from the drivers hatch) which was drooping quite a lot.
All told it wasn't being used much as a result.
Quarantine Happened so not much else to do! The idea of cutting up my (quite expensive) tank was a bit strange but hey, why not!
Main thoughts are to utilise the same sort of system as the actual tank to try and blend in but using blocks to push the idler forwards a bit.
First idea to use a couple of links off an old bike chain to match the original layout; very close and too many hours spent trying to make it work but the chain link holes are just too far apart (about 4mm) so would cause drive/track impacts.
Long story short Mechano is exactly the right size and, with a couple of 3D printed filler parts, it works and seems to be holding out. What I did was:
1 Cut off the old one, and the "arm" behind it
2 File back the remaining bits level with the rest of the bracket (make sure this face is flat and not angled as this affects the idler angle)
3 Fill in the hollow in the moulded tension "barrel" with cut spru and glue
4 Cut the head off a suitable screw and glue axel into hole (you may need to drill it out a bit to add length)
5 Mechano strip cut down to 2 hole lengths (almost matches the size!)
6 Create filler strip and outer spacer
7 Make tension "blocks" to go between the old "arm" and new idler pivot
8 Put it all together
If only I knew all that before I started it would have saved hours!
Note; the existing "tensioning" system is hollow and I filled it as much as possible with cut up bits of plastic and glue to try and give the bolt something to hold on to. I ended up gluing the threaded part in after cutting the head off, to create the pivot.
I'm trying to add pictures but it does look very "stock" and the arm movement mimics the original, which is nice. The different size blocks push the arm forwards, increasing the tension.
Hopefully I have attached pictures but I'm new and don't know if I did things correctly!