RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I'm looking at the Taigen New Gen Steel Gearboxes, and I was wondering if someone could explain the difference between 3:1 and 4:1.

The 3:1 have three reduction shafts in between rhe motor pinion and the gear on the axle, and the 4:1 have four reduction shafts in between the pinion and the gear on the axle. The 3:1 will give you a better high speed but not as much torque and the 4:1 will give you great torque and low end performance but not as much top speed.

I only use the 3:1 in modern tanks that require a higher top speed.

This is 4:1 by Taigen. Just happened to have them out of my tank right now.

They have loads of torque. So much that idler rod can bend or the small pinion on the drive shaft get free. The small pin that holds it in place can get ripped off. I mean the small pin that you can see below.


One can fix it though with a nail or something similar.




Another thing I am not a fan of is the terrible noise they make. I understand it is the black steel cogs to blame.

In that regard I cannot but recommend Mato gearboxes. Loads of torque and bearings all around and no noise. Mine have bearings only in the drive shaft. The rest is this:



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Are the Mato ones better than say, the Heng Long ultimate gears?

Are the Mato steel? And those rings (I'm blanking on the name) reduce stress and help the gears roll, right?

[quote

And those rings (I'm blanking on the name) reduce stress and help the gears roll, right?[/quote]

"BUSH/ES"

I haven’t had the new HL ultimate gearboxes in my hands. But from pictures it looks they are the same as Taigen 4:1 only with bearings on all axles. Those in mine are called brass bushings if I’m not mistaken. If I had to chose now I’d take the HL ultimate.
One thing with Taigen 4:1 is that the transmission plate in Taigen lower hull (Tiger 1) doesn’t have screw holes to match all holes in the gearboxes. The right side can be attached with 2 screws in the plate and one in the plastic but the left side can be attached with only one screw in the plate and one in the plastic. Unless you make another hole in the gearbox floor. Because it needs all the attachment places you can get. It doesn’t stay in place if attached only by one screw in the plate. That doesn’t help sprocket assignment and how the track moves. I guess the 3:1 doesn’t have this problem.


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There we go! Thank you, I was thinking bushels and all sorts of crazy things.

RenoirLV wrote:I haven’t had the new HL ultimate gearboxes in my hands. But from pictures it looks they are the same as Taigen 4:1 only with bearings on all axles. Those in mine are called brass bushings if I’m not mistaken. If I had to chose now I’d take the HL ultimate.
One thing with Taigen 4:1 is that the transmission plate in Taigen lower hull (Tiger 1) doesn’t have screw holes to match all holes in the gearboxes. The right side can be attached with 2 screws in the plate and one in the plastic but the left side can be attached with only one screw in the plate and one in the plastic. Unless you make another hole in the gearbox floor. Because it needs all the attachment places you can get. It doesn’t stay in place if attached only by one screw in the plate. That doesn’t help sprocket assignment and how the track moves. I guess the 3:1 doesn’t have this problem.


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Just so you know, taigen went to bearings on all axles and shafts quite some time ago. If you have a set of TG gear boxes that have bearings on the axles and bushings on all of the other gear shafts then it's a rather old box.

I thought they fixed the problem with the attachment holes but I'm not sure so I'll check and get back to you.

As I mentioned at the time I bought and fitted my new Heng Long Gearboxes from www.forgebeartanks.com they were the easiest to fit onto a Gearbox mounting plate that I had ever used
Not too expensive and all bearings.