I cant stay on line for long I have large sharp rocks in my eye
I have to ask some questions about the PZ4 Taigen Metal hull (As distinct from the Body or Turret
)
The rear rollers on each side should be 3 to 5 mm lower than the three rollers in front of them,
A dremel will cut them off and
http://www.rctank.de/ is a source for replacements,
E-Bay is where I bought a pair of bearings that act as supports for the gearbox output shafts,
Simply push them down the shaft all the way into the non removable output shaft housings and glue them in place,
The fitting of the idlers is a problem if you want to be able to fit, remove and adjust the tension of the tracks because there is no provision for track adjusters,
Using your Dremel or an Exacto Saw remove the extended threaded fitting which the idler screws into until it is flush,
You will need an Extended "Tap" to drive a thread right through the fitting,
The Track adjuster can be obtained from the aforementioned
http://www.rctank.de/,
There is only one PZ4 Metal hull that is without fault and that is the Tamiya ABS/Metal Combination,
The Asiatam and the Taigen Metal hulls require far to much work,
As to the Suspension, In the words of Kenneth Williams "Its a disgrace"
,
The tags as has already been mentioned slide/fall off, the fix is a dab of "Loctite 243",
The Taigen suspension used to include some very small springs` the holes for their fitting are still to be found on the faux spring block,
Taigen discovered that no part of their PZ4 Suspension actually works so now they leave the little springs off,
If you can get hold of the Tamiya Suspension that is a much better alternative,
As to plans for your build,
The Tamiya PZ4 Assembly instructions can be downloaded from the Download section on the Header at the top of this page they are very useful when putting together a Taigen or a Heng Long PZ4.