Using Photo-etch parts

[43rdRecceReg]

David Damek PLASMO he is a legend . If you think Aber is expensive he has a video showing you how to make PE parts . His models are outstanding.

Thanks, Ronnie! It's good to know that I've recommended a legend

[tankgirlfuzzy]

I hate to sound negative, and I certainly don't have anywhere near the talent of Mr. Plasmo, but I've watched that video before and was appalled at that soldering technique. Now, I'm no soldering guru--in fact, I'm decent at best and average most of the time, but there is no way those bonds will hold under any kind of real stress. It's fine to do this for static 1/35 models where the parts will never be touched after completion, but tacking a little solder and then "painting" it on the joint with an iron wil not lead to a strong joint that will take any bit of stress or handling. For a strong enough joint that can withstand parts being handled or bumped or tugged at, like on our RC tanks or in say battery connectors, etc. you must heat both metal parts to be joined and melt the solder using the heat at the joint, not the soldering iron. The use of flux definitely helps that process. And to keep things neat I use solid wire without a rosin core, which makes it easier to control the "flow" of solder. Also, I stick with lead based solder because it's just easier to work with and is strong enough for models and electronics. Lead free solder with silver needs much higher heat and is harder to work with, but some have success using torches, which I've never tried.

I'm about to post a thread where I've had to deal with just this issue on soldering brass parts that need to stay on when bumped or tugged, so I've had to further refine my technique. Soldering is one of those things I hate doing, but have learned to do by necessity in RC flying, but it's taken a long time to gain any skill at it. Some are lucky and take to it easily, but I think for most it's a difficult task that can take years to gain competence.

[43rdRecceReg]

I hate to sound negative, and I certainly don't have anywhere near the talent of Mr. Plasmo, but I've watched that video before and was appalled at that soldering technique. Now, I'm no soldering guru--in fact, I'm decent at best and average most of the time, but there is no way those bonds will hold under any kind of real stress. It's fine to do this for static 1/35 models where the parts will never be touched after completion, but tacking a little solder and then "painting" it on the joint with an iron wil not lead to a strong joint that will take any bit of stress or handling. For a strong enough joint that can withstand parts being handled or bumped or tugged at, like on our RC tanks or in say battery connectors, etc. you must heat both metal parts to be joined and melt the solder using the heat at the joint, not the soldering iron. The use of flux definitely helps that process. And to keep things neat I use solid wire without a rosin core, which makes it easier to control the "flow" of solder. Also, I stick with lead based solder because it's just easier to work with and is strong enough for models and electronics. Lead free solder with silver needs much higher heat and is harder to work with, but some have success using torches, which I've never tried.

I'm about to post a thread where I've had to deal with just this issue on soldering brass parts that need to stay on when bumped or tugged, so I've had to further refine my technique. Soldering is one of those things I hate doing, but have learned to do by necessity in RC flying, but it's taken a long time to gain any skill at it. Some are lucky and take to it easily, but I think for most it's a difficult task that can take years to gain competence.

I still use lead-based solder when I can get it, as it is much easier to work with. However, anything vaguely toxic these days, gets the Health and Safety Fuhrers' knickers in a twist, and lead is on their hit list.
However, I only solder electronic parts, PCBs and things like guitar pickups. The PE world is one inhabited by hopelessly addicted modellers, who seem drawn to creating almost microscopic detail Indeed, it's probably a place where graduate modeller's go... a sort of modelling monastery. I'm tempted to visit it; but I might not stay.
I saw some static models of tanks, for example, and other armoured vehicles (in several scales; but all less than 1:16) in the Swiss Military Museum (https://www.festungsmuseum.ch/englisch/) The detail was simply breathtaking. However, the models also smacked of an essential fragility. It was difficult to envisage them kitted out for tank-on-tank action.
From what I've learned, it seems that when parts are scaled down they seem to lose strength (that suggestion could prompt several other threads ).
In any event, I accept that really refined model components are likely to fail (break, fall off) under 'battle' or rough trial conditions. PE parts ought to be tougher than the more delicate 3D printed plastic bits; but could still fall prey to torsion, stress and mishap. Yes, some plastics are stronger than others, but metal ought to be more durable.

[43rdRecceReg]

For anyone with necessary space, money, and desire to take PE into another discipline- these CNC milling machines would be very attractive. If there's a vehicle, or tank, you'd love to have that's not available in kit or RTR form, you could always design and cut your own. Especially if you're already familiar with 3D printing.
Some of the cost could also be recouped by making parts for friends, or even kits. It would be a sort of modeller's co-operative- rather than a business (with all that entails ) With a bit of thought and planning, such a venture could be undertaken, without moving into territory already occupied by members with related businesses. Just a thought...
In any event, these machines are just worth a look anyway; they're amazing.

phpBB [video]

[General Jumbo01]

I keep coming across engraving machines on the internet. Could these be used to produce your own PE parts / sheets? They appear to be, like 3D printers, a computer driven - hands off process.

[43rdRecceReg]

I keep coming across engraving machines on the internet. Could these be used to produce your own PE parts / sheets? They appear to be, like 3D printers, a computer driven - hands off process.

Yes, well from my first look at these machines, it struck me that the budget ones have engraving and routing functions- similar to PE; but minus the chemicals, I guess. They work with wood, plastics, aluminium
and so on.

[Max-U52]

All interesting machines, Highlander, but I believe only the second and third (maybe the first) would have much use in our hobby. For me the question is the software. I noticed none of them really said much about what it takes to tell the machine what to do, and that's the key. If you can't talk to it easily it's just an expensive paperweight (kinda like my resin printer ), so I'd have to be sure I could actually use it. Then there's the price question, further study required. Ideally you'd be able to just download a 3D model and have the machine take it from there, but I'm sure there's gonna be some kind of counterpart to CURA in 3D printing. Something to write the G code for you. But wait, I'm supposed to keep saying NO NEW PROJECTS!!

[jarndice]

I think when we get into computer aided machine tools we begin to lose the reason why we are involved in this hobby,
I own a bench machine bed that when coupled to an electric drill and a bench vice can be used as a lathe, a router and a milling machine but it was cheap, it is small and the power drill and the bench vice are easily removable,
When it comes to Photo-Etch I own a bench PE bending machine, I also own a pair of Tamiya (74067) PE Bending Pliers, I hardly ever use the bench machine because the Tamiya pliers are usable throughout my modelling and are not exclusive to PE,
I nearly forgot one of the most important "Tools" in my PE bag and that is a couple of rolls of Double Sided Tape one thin and one wide,
Perfect for laying a PE part on another part and holding both firmly in place while pin vising multiple holes through both ensuring perfect alignment IE The hinges on the front and rear "ABER"/"VOYAGER"fenders of the Tiger 1 connecting the "ABER"/"VOYAGER"hinged flaps. Of course once the work has been done the tape is removed.

[43rdRecceReg]

Thanks, Gary (aka 'Max-Keine Weiteren Projekte -U52'), and Shaun Yes, well I've always been fascinated by tools, weaponry, and technology, since eyeing trees up in terms of potential bows, and catapults (aged 5 )
Some of the CNC machines look amazing; but I was put off by the lack of support for OS 10. Then I saw doubts expressed over the software for some of the packages in the CNC emporium available ( to lure and tempt-) on Ebay and Amazon.
At the same time, unless I built an extension, I simply wouldn't have room for one of these.
Indeed, my own 3D printer is currently stashed away in a cupboard, unused. One day though...
I guess, I'm more 'analogue' than digital when it comes to 3D, CNC. Above all, though, I don't like 'Windows', and this sort of tech seems to demand it.

[43rdRecceReg]

Can anyone tell me the typical thickness of the brass sheets used in PE kits from Voyager, and Aber?