RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Currently my son has a number of issues with his newly acquired upgraded secondhand Heng Long Tiger 1 following a run out today, so we need some advise.

Using it today on the wet grass he made a tight turn and the metal track partially came off the front sprocket (He didn't notice at first).

We have realigned the track but now the tank will run straight in reverse, both tracks turning, but when it moves forwards only one track operates so the tank goes round in circles.

We have tried swapping over the feeds to the motors and when we do none functioning track now rotates forwards and backwards but the other side now only rotates backwards. So I believe we have burnt out an electrical component.....the main control board???

The tank has Taigen board fitted with a fan...do I need to replace this? Also where can we obtain some of the small JST connectors from since the wiring to one of the two pin connectors is loose and keeps popping out.

All advise gratefully appreciated

Not a good start! I'd advise against running on long or wet grass simply because of the grip it offers. Like thick pile carpet, it will offer a lot of resistance when turning and this could cause damage to the transmission or electrics. To pull a track off would take a lot of effort so, as you say, the damage does seem to be the electronics which, in your case, is the Taigen multi function box. Try Forgebear Tanks near Bedford - the main importer/distributor who are very helpful. They can probably help with your lose plug too.

Hope you can get your Tiger up and running quickly

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Sounds like you need a new control board. Not sure why you would need to replace the fan tho? The control boards in the toy tanks do not have any stall protection, so when the motor does stall (i.e. when the track comes off and jams) it will demand as much current as the battery can supply, and instantly fry the chip that controls that direction - the fan will not save you here.

JST connectors can be bought from Amazon, usually bundled with a suitable crimp tool.

Yes it wasn't a good start to RC tanks and my son has been very sad today since he can't use it.

Thank you very much for the instance advise, we will order the parts tonight and get Tiger 1 up and running again in the week.

We post pictures once it has been repaired.

Tigerjames wrote:Yes it wasn't a good start to RC tanks and my son has been very sad today since he can't use it.

Thank you very much for the instance advise, we will order the parts tonight and get Tiger 1 up and running again in the week.

We post pictures once it has been repaired.

If you have been unlucky enough to fry the board, it would be a good idea to put a fuse inline (say 10amps) between the MFU (Control board or Multi Function Unit) and each of the motors. If stalling occurs, this should give the board some measure of protection. More sophisticated aftermarket boards (IBU2, Elmod etc.,) ususally have fuses built into the board.
Hope this helps, and hope the problem is purely mechanical (running gear/ track issue).

43rdRecceReg, thank you for the advise on the fuse and we will go down route when we insert the new board, having looked at a few threads on the matter I do have a query on the positioning of the fuse although, should the fuse go between the power supply and the board or between the board and the motors?

Tigerjames wrote:43rdRecceReg, thank you for the advise on the fuse and we will go down route when we insert the new board, having looked at a few threads on the matter I do have a query on the positioning of the fuse although, should the fuse go between the power supply and the board or between the board and the motors?

Both would work, as demand from the board (for whatever need) is met by the Battery (power supply). Excessive demand would blow the fuse.
I suppose, fusible links between the motors, and the boards, might be a millisecond faster. However, one 10amp fuse would be cheaper, and easier, to fit than two.