RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

The Americans have been building tanks for 100 years, and the M48 is the only one I like.

You've picked a great subject Louis, I'm looking forward to seeing you work your trademark magic to transform a toy into something really special.

Louis I expect this to be another amazing build. How does this 1/18 scale tank compare to your other 1/16 tanks? It appears the 1/16 scale parts fit perfectly

Thank you guys for your encouragements, I will try to make something special and exciting, ensuring the Vietnam vets will be proud of their tank but also a model that anyone with basic tools can replicate.

c.rainford73 wrote:How does this 1/18 scale tank compare to your other 1/16 tanks? It appears the 1/16 scale parts fit perfectly

Hi Carl, the 1/18 M-48 is exactly of the same size as a 1/16 Tamiya M-26 Pershing or a Hooben T-55. It's big.
Keen eyes will notice the M-48 model is currently about 2mm too high on its suspension. I expect the metal tracks to come, and the equipment to add weight that will put some pressure on the suspension springs. Its always better to have a bit more torque than not enough, specially on road wheel 1, 5 and 6. If not, then I will likely adjust the anchors on the hull to lower the hull a bit. Its done by snapping the superglue of the anchor with pliers and reposition. Done it twice already... Once happy at the end of the build, the anchors of the suspension springs will be permanently reinforced in place.
Regards, Louis

Wow Louis that is a very big model!

I am following this build very closely, as I have one of these M-48's sitting on a shelf as well, just gathering dust. Your looks great! I know that it will only get better and better as your progress on it. Thanks for posting you work and your solutions to the various changes that you have been making to the suspension, etc.

Good start, nice base for the conversion by the looks of it!

Hi, thank you for your interest.

Before starting with the hull, it is important to decide which type of M48A3 you want because there are noticeable differences between early A3 and later A3 versions.

First, i would like to mention that the book M48 Patton by David Doyle is an absolute must for this build. It contains detail info on all variants from A1 to A5 and is full of great quality close up pictures in color and on nice glossy paper. Highly recommended.
A key differentiator for the M48 is the presence or not of the G305 turret cupola riser. It was designed to improve visibility with all around periscopes and providing extra space for the commander. It is interesting that the American raised the cupola on their already high M48 for use in Vietnam's jungle while the Israeli did everything to lower it for desert warfare.
The early variant does not have the G305 and can be easily recognised by the fenders brackets and head lights with rounded guards.
This is the US Marine Corps field modification variant as shown on the Dragon 1/35 box. It has the early fenders and head lights but received the G305 and Xenon search light in the field. This is the variant of the Ultimate Soldier model, accurately representing a USMC tank.
And this is the later "Mod B" introduced by the Army. It has the G305 riser, new fender brackets, new X embossed stiffeners, armored tail lights and plates around the grill, and M60 style head lamps with new square guard. This is the variant that I decided to represent.
continuing on following post.

During my analysis of the 1/18 Ultimate Soldier model and pictures of the real tank, it became obvious that I would need to redo the fenders and brackets for an accurate model.

The model air filter and fender bracket.
Same area of the real thing. While still being somewhat accurate in size and shape, the model is highly simplified. The richness of details seen on the real tank is simply not there on the model. It might be acceptable to many but these are the kind of detail that I love to reproduce.
This is the model's heater exhaust pipe.
This is how it should look.
Brackets and bolts are important to me...
Continuing on following post

I love the smell of napalm in the morning.

All features on the fenders were removed with the Dremel, safeguarding the filters and bins for reuse as base kit components. The Dremel was overheating and it was a really dirty business, with plastic residue flying everywhere, smoke coming out of the melting plastic and with the sound of a dentist drilling someone's mouth. This needs to be done outside.
Plasticard pieces are cut and glued to fill in the holes.
Putty applied.
Then the fenders were sanded to a smooth surface, still needing polishing. The filters and bins were cleaned up and prepared for further detailing.
The front of the hull was also sanded to better represent the slope of the glasis. It will be given a coat of putty to represent the cast effect.
With this important step done, I have a good base to rebuild the fenders with all brackets properly detailed, more accurate air filters, bins and embossed stiffeners of the Mod B version.

Regards, Louis

Hi, presenting the air filter.

Just coming out of the Centurion Sho't Kal build, I am becoming quite familiar with scratch building the Continental engine air filters. Here shown on a M48.
The Ultimate Soldier rendition of the air filters has a somewhat resemblance to the real thing but has much simplications and contains some fantasy details on all sides. it is also a bit too high and too narrow.
I reused the model parts as the core for rebuilding the details seen on pictures. It is easy to do with basic tools, taking about 5 hours of work for both.
The finished air filters.
The boxy air filters are a trademark recognition point of the Patton tanks. These are highly visible on top of the fenders so for an accurate M48, it is worth spending a few hours to get as close as possible to the real thing.
Regards, Louis