RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

One of my favourite centurion variants, great to see you turning your prodigious skills to this one!! Following along!

wow, you‘ve made a fantastic job at the engine deck and rear!!
So detailed and scratch made!

Hi Louis,

Fantastic work and again accomplished in an amazingly short time span.

A question though, looking at the photo of the actual deck area and the AFV model. On the forward "angle shaped" vents, shouldn't the louvers be facing forward?

Cheers,
Barry

Hi, thank you for your encouragements. They make me want to do a better job...

BarryC wrote:A question though, looking at the photo of the actual deck area and the AFV model. On the forward "angle shaped" vents, shouldn't the louvers be facing forward?

Yep, thanks Barry, I noticed it too after the glue was dry... For a while, I thought I would get away with it but since you noticed it so fast, it made me find the necessary courage to redo them. When painted and with dark pigments applied at the bottom of each louver, it should not show that they are not perforated and should look very good.

Below are the corrected front engine grills with the vents facing forward.
Here you can see the exhausts coming out of the armored horns at the back, done in brass.
Good pictures are available of the exhaust arrangements in my reference book.
I used M0.6 bolt and nuts , these were the smaller bolts i had to replicate the working mechanism. They are quite small, looks ok.
Regards, Louis

Keep up the great work!

Barry

Quick work already, everyone’s gonna love this one

Its a credit to you indeed when after all that louvre work-backwards- would have sunk most souls, but you Sir just take it on & make things right
I'd have made an excuse & covered the deck in stowage !!

Hi,

The fenders have been re-installed. It is critical for the success of the build to take a lot of care in preparing the parts for a good fit. In this case, the fender's joint with the hull need to be given an angle to fit the hull.
It is also critical that the fenders be made and kept horizontal. The fenders have a natural tendency to fall at the front where there is limited support with the hull.
Many Shot tanks were given a thick supplemental armored plate on the front glacis, some do not so be careful in selecting reference pictures.
I replicated the armored plate, I want my Shot Kal to have all the cool stuff.
There is a lot of equipment on a Shot Kal, it is difficult to find good pictures of the front brackets for the fenders. Yeah, those headlight guards will be fun to reproduce...
Brackets are done in brass with Meng SPS005 nuts and bolts, a must for this build.
The build is creating a lot of plastic and metal dust everywhere, it can easily get out of control. The model need a good wash and I also need to remove glue residue. Can't wait for the summer to come to do my modelling on the patio deck.
Happy Easter !

Louis

Hey Louis, done yet?

Just teasing, I'm really stoked by this build like your the M-113.

Barry

BarryC wrote:Hey Louis, done yet?

Not quite, been working on the air filters. Now that the fenders at the front are supported, my attention has moved back to the rear of the vehicle..

In addition to the Continental engine, the Kal design team standardized on M48 systems and chose the Donaldson box air filters installed on the fenders on either side of the hull, similar to the M48A3.
The two air filters were created together in order to make sure they were identical.
The AFV Club 1/35 kit provided dimensions using formula (kit dimension in mm divided by 1/35, then divided by 16).
I like working with plasticard. Contrary to 3D printed parts, there is limited sanding required to make the parts smooth and polished.
The finished air filters and fender supports.
Pictures of the Kal air filters are very difficult to find and they are not simple boxes, these are complex with multiple angles and shapes. The 1/35 kit did not provide enough guidance for the details, and even made me do a few mistakes.
Not perfect but acceptable. I see a few things that can be easily improved, others that will stay like that. I want a model that will look good with close ups. The grey parts are modified LEGO parts from my son's Lego box, quite useful.
Some more pictures on the following post.