RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I know that the MATO Tiger 1 metal rear panel will only fit the Taigen Metal Hull after a lot of work But how much work if any is needed to get a good fit between a MATO Metal Tiger 1 Body and a Taigen Metal Hull ?

Morning, Shaun
My question would be, why would you want to marry the Mato upper hull to the Taigen metal (alloy) hull? It is because it's inherently more accurate- detail wise? Or, is this metal for metal's sake?..along with all that extra, and not necessarily helpful, weight. You yourself have observed in the past, I believe, that it's easier to modify/adapt ABS and Styrene parts than zinc/pot metal ones. One example would be creating slight slopes on the top edge of the front armour panel, to get it looking a bit more authentic. Clearly, trimming plastic here,would be easier than filing the edge down. What's more, isn't it easier to create pitting and other 'worn' metal effects on plastic (using Surfacer etc..) than on pot metal itself? Again, just a thought.

Here's the Mato rear panel. Again, is it more accurate than the Taigen one? I always thought they shared the same basic moulds...

The idea of an all metal Tank is... incredibly alluring to model armour fans- for obvious reasons. The pinnacle being an Armortek in 1:6, or perhaps the Aeromate Tiger 1 in 1:16. However, at a less utopian level, isn't it simply easier- and more practical- to work with plastic and a good alloy hull/chassis (such as the Taigen or Tamiya types)?
Just a few thoughts for discussion.
Roy.

Hi Roy, The reason I am thinking of a "Mato" Metal Body is simply because they make the only AFFGORDABLE Tiger 1 body with working Engine Covers,
I have fitted working Engine Covers to all my Panzer 4s and the loss of a secure locking system is a pain and the only solution I have found to date is Neo-Dymion Magnets which work well but I am very aware of the weak link in the system, (The pull on the self tapping screws)although using 10Kg pull magnets might be overkill
Some time ago I went through 3 Tiger 1 ABS Back panels, all of which I had expended time in detailing and painting,
The lugs that held the panel to the Taigen Metal Hull would fail So I thought a Metal Rear Panel might solve the problem, Dave @
http://www.forgebeartanks.com
had Mato Metal Rear Panels in stock so I ordered one,
Dave being the straight up guy that we all know him to be was prepared to lose £ 30 by warning me that it was not compatible with the Taigen Metal Hull ,
Needs must so I went ahead and bought it,
It certainly took work to fit because it was 3mm shorter than the ABS original but that was a simple fix using a strip of 3mm Plasticard as a fillit but the bigger problem was that the lugs on the Mato panel were way off and would not line up with the locating holes in the Taigen Hull,
I made up a a metal sandwich out of sections of "Heinz" Soup tins and drilled new holes that did line up with the Mato panel,
I stripped off the Metal fittings from the Mato Panel all of which were simply screwed in, (Other Makers take note)and fitted the ABS fittings from the failed panels,
It was a job that once done was pretty easy, Its the working it all out for the first time that was the challenge,
As to the advantages of the ABS body, Yes I am in total agreement with you and I would probably remove a lot of the "Furniture" but quite simply I do not have the skill to cut out ABS engine covers from an existing Heng Long/Taigen Tiger 1 ABS Body and fit working replacements and the only (Expensive) alternative is "Ludwigs" and that Officer is my story and I am sticking with it :shifty.: