RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

BK - this appears to be a single switch so would this be of any benefit to you? Given the output of the receiver will be no more than 5 to 6 volts (BEC) you don't need or want more. Try a simple 2 switch example first - cheaper and more function!

Resistors? If you get a bright white 3mm or 5mm 6v LED for your searchlight you may need no resistor (you'll want it bright) but you can simply put one in line if too bright. As for values, not sure off hand - l usually Google for advice and then forget! (Doh!)

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I tried using an led plugged into my receiver which was set up on a cheap Chinese esc and the esc started to get warm and the led went from really bright to very dim within 30 seconds Any ideas on the cause of this,

Cheers, Lee.

Model Builder 4 wrote:I tried using my receiver set up on a cheap Chinese esc and the esc started to get warm and the led went from really bright to very dim within 30 seconds Any ideas on the cause of this,

Cheers, Lee.

You burnt the led. You should not use an esc but an electronic switch.
Anyway you always have to check the output voltage and to check the voltage the led needs. If it is the same, no problem.
If the led receives overvoltage you will burn it, so you need to fit a resistor.

A led when working, is never hot.

Edit: Im using the same electronic switch as general jumbo in my watchtower.
Edit 2: Yes, I know you can also use a mini esc as a switch, but is overcomplicating the things, lol.

Hi Raul, the led was running from a spare channel on my receiver, i was using the esc as a power source, would this still be the problem?

Cheers, Lee .

The clue could be the word 'cheap' but l use cheap Chinese ESCs in cheap trucks and they've all been fine. Maybe the LED was substandard? The white LEDs on the WPL etc trucks often blow after the electronics are upgraded to hobby grade so maybe cheap LEDs are the cause. Does the esc still work okay?

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Getting confusing. So the LED was not a part of the ESC?

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Model Builder 4 wrote:Hi Raul, the led was running from a spare channel on my receiver, i was using the esc as a power source, would this still be the problem?

Cheers, Lee .

Sure. Probarbly that ESC powers up the led with battery voltage or at least 6v...

A warm white led, with 3.4 v is toasted.
A red with about 2 will be toasted.

So if you stilk want to use an esc, you need to fit a resistor, OR control the output of the esc with a potentiometer in your radio or so.

I did a video for you, im uploading it, Lee

Here's a useful refresher on using LEDs in models. It might help a little.
https://www.ehow.co.uk/how_7280654_put- ... -kits.html
I bought 200 3mm and 5mm LEDs on Ebay. As I recall, the pack cost less than £3.00. (I think Rad would approve )
A few were duds from the outset, but I've had good use from others. Cheap as chips Chinese.
They come in variety of colours, but all were rated at 3v (20MA), and are suitable for model use (with appropriate resistors.)

Thanks Rad 'General' I'm not very good at explaining electronics sorry, no the led was not part of the esc, I rigged up an led with wires and fitted a futaba plug which was then plugged into a spare channel on the receiver and esc in turn, I came across this same problem a couple of weeks ago when the same happened and damaged 2 of these esc's and now only certain functions on them will work,

Cheers, Lee.