RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Per title. Is normal plasticweld type glue ok?

EMA Plastic Weld can be used where real strength is required; but it sets pretty quickly. The trick is to let it run into, and between, the two mating surfaces (almost by osmosis) after they are pressed together. This makes an effective seal. EMA Plastic Weld is pretty potent, .. and so a mask is needed- I'd say...unless you have an extractor fan, or well-ventilated workspace. Otherwise, you might end up seeing pink elephants, or little green men
Personally, I use Revell Contacta Pro cement inside the plastic sandwich, so to speak, and then seal the edges with Plastic Weld.
Tamiya Cement and ABS Cement also produce good results. If you happen to make a mistake, you get a little more time to rectify it using these bonding agents, than would be the case with Plastic Weld.
Revell works well for me, anyway, as the main agent. It also has a needle-thin dispensing tube, which comes in very useful for the smallest model fittings. I know Alwyn is a fan of Plastic Weld.

Sounds to me like my trusty bottle (with needle appier) of UHU plast special should do just fine then for the majority of the work. Thanks! That makes things a lot easier.

I use cheap thin superglue from the dollar store for most of the builds. Very solid, it dries fast and can be sanded soon after. It does not smell much. I use thicker superglue on very large parts. Small drops can be used to position parts for dry fitting and these can be snapped and sanded smooth when the parts are ready for permanent gluing, some only after painting. I recommend wearing N95 mask when sanding Ludwig plasticard parts, which always require heavy preparation.

lmcq11 wrote:I recommend wearing N95 mask when sanding Ludwig plasticard parts, which always require heavy preparation.

I was gonna prepare the parts at work, during breaks. I work in a metal working factory so tools and masks are easy to come by.