RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

So after some deliberation, I think I need to revisit the approach I was looking to use for internal mechanical power transfer and gearing - likely switching from drive shafts to chains
Having looked around a bits, there seems to be as many ways of setting stuff out as there are model

This has also opened up the possibility of have some decorative internal rather than it all being purely functions - some of the kid I have seen on here have blown me away in terms of detail! Amazing

So that all being said, I would really appreciate seeing the layout of the internal of your models - be it cleaver motor/electronic/gearbox placement or any decorative internals such as cockpits, storage areas, etc

Let’s see some of your showcase models

Cheers

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The internals in my stug, everything lifts out, just requires the motor wires unplugging. Neat eh?

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tomhugill wrote:The internals in my stug, everything lifts out, just requires the motor wires unplugging. Neat eh?

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I really like that! Serviceability is something I need to give more thought to - as it will be made of multiple 3d printed sections it won’t currently come apart without completely coming apart
Is that speaker in there too??? Hadn’t considered audio capabilities!


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That's a really practical solution, Tom! I had a stab at making a removable tray for my Cromwell project, but it didn't embrace the speaker as well. Now, there's an idea . I believe Chris Ludwig makes liners for some models. They have the effect of rationalising the layout, keeping wires neatly tucked away and- above all, as in your example, easy access for maintenance.
Sorting (simplifying) the wiring connectors between the upper and lower hulls, has also prompted some ingenious solutions, here on RCTW (using computer ribbon cables and so on..)

Same idea as Tom, also in a StuG III. Unplug the motor wires and the electrics tray lifts out.

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It's great to pool ideas! Here's the tray in place in my Cromwell, and then fully populated. One problem with this model is that the Cromwell is a naturally low profile tank, and this means there's precious little headroom between the bottom of the turret (and any gun/recoil mechanism protruding downwards from it) and the contents of the lower hull.
Example, at first I couldn't get the gun to elevate properly because the breech was fouling the wiring and TK 60 underneath it. So, I had to reorganise the whole thing until, finally, this arrangement worked. A tip then, do check there's room in the the hull for components in the turret


All the parts on the tray, from the battery back to smoker, are held in place either by velcro, or double-sided sticky pads (like the ones Tamiya supply for the DMD units). Tom will know, by the way, what a B**ger it is to cram stuff into the Cromwell

Wardog wrote:The trays work well,torsion bars can be a problem.
I'm about to start work on my hl pershing,removing the battery from its compartment,and which it becomes a speaker box.

You'll have to show us pictures when you get it done

They are cool trays Tom, James and Roy did you all purchase them or make them?

The tray in the stug is scratch built, torsion bars are no issue it just sits on top

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I think I shall continue with my own method of keeping all the internals in place but easy to remove and that is to line the hull floor and the insides of the hull with Velcro and line the base of all the internal fittings with Velcro,
Once the Velcro is firmly glued in place everything is secure and yet can be removed with ease and all the positions can be adjusted to take advantage of every available mm.

tomhugill wrote:The tray in the stug is scratch built, torsion bars are no issue it just sits on top

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Mine is scratch-built, too, Mick. It's a tad crude, but it works. Like many others, I've a big box of styrene oddments, and offcuts, from projects.
They can always be put to good use; and were here .