Taigen T-34/85

[jimbo_wa]

The best looking tank ever, I want a Taigen full Option T34/85 so bad, I own a Taigen Tiger (6,5kg) already


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I agree Ghosttjr, it’s up there with the best!

I’m also going to get another upper hull and see if I can cobble together a SU-100, the chassis is full of possibilities!


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[Son of a gun-ner]

The best looking tank ever, I want a Taigen full Option T34/85 so bad, I own a Taigen Tiger (6,5kg) already


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I agree Ghosttjr, it’s up there with the best!

I’m also going to get another upper hull and see if I can cobble together a SU-100, the chassis is full of possibilities!


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I got a spare top hull and turret off of forgebear, came with the same quick release clips too

[jimbo_wa]

I got a spare top hull and turret off of forgebear, came with the same quick release clips too

I may have already placed my order...

(Picking it up at the next G.L.A.D meet!)


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[General Jumbo01]

And Jumbo - the fact that the wheels can lift to foul the top returning track is not s fault. The Christie suspension system is designed to do just that!

Hey, you’re the Jumbo -I’m Jimbo!

It’s not the wheel fouling the track, it’s the upper track being limited by the upper deck mounting plate.


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Ha ha, yes!

Just had another look at your photo. There could be a case for you to fit a travel limiter to stop the wheel lifting too much, just the opposite to the Mick method, but fit a small rubber bung at the top of the slot. Using rubber or hard sponge just stops the arm more subtly than a hard stop.

However, also evident from that photo is that the entire length of your track is running close to the top deck. If you look at the real things you'll see that their tracks droop steeply from the front idler to the top of the road wheels, which are designed to do the job of the smaller return wheels on some tanks. When just one wheel is then forced high, as in your photo, only the track immediately above that wheel comes close to the top deck. Not a problem. Try slackening the track tension first and then see if this particular example still sits high.

Google 'T34 tank images' for a guide. If you look at mine (bad photo!) you can see that the returning track lays on the top of the road wheels and droops slightly between each wheel top, especially when driving forwards - a rear sprocket feature.

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[General Jumbo01]

One, I mentioned how many I had to show I know how the suspension works and the best way to lower it.

Two, my springs aren't that stiff, and too soft a spring, especially at the ends can cause running problems. Also, if the wheels already lift to foul the returning track, the springs are surely too soft to start with, therefore, they'd need stiffening rather than softening. Although tracks at the top running on the wheels are not a problem, they do on Tigers without consequences.

As for why I haven't done mods to all my tanks, I have over 30, and some, the lad and myself are happy with how they run over rough terrain with more ground clearance, I'm not that bothered by exacting visual representations when we're having fun.

You really want me to reply? You've done 3 so know best?

Yes, the first and last wheels are usually firmer. So don't change those 4, leave them stiffer. Limiting travel won't help though!

Not wanting realistic looking models, prefering fun? Fine, if that's your bag man! But what l was posting was a constructive answer to Jimbo's unanswered initial question. I just forgot for one moment that it's your job to answer all questions on your forum. Please accept my apologies Mick.

I think I'll take a few days off before l just abandon your forum - like l understand so many have before (had a few sympathetic emails). There so much potential here, if only we were encouraged to actually DO more.

How's that initiative to help that tank day in Hampshire (?) doing? Not spotted any progress. Sorry Jimbo, back to topic (my auto spill chucker corrects Jimbo to Jumbo!


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[Son of a gun-ner]

What? You really are deluded.
First you give advice about how to modify a suspension system you clearly knew nothing about, and if you read above your first post about it, it was like a random post because there was no mention about suspension before then.
Then after I correct you you start reading up on the subject. Gosh, how you hate being corrected.
Maybe there's other proven methods out there other than what you think is best.
And you're a fine one to criticize what I have and haven't done, you haven't exactly been doing tanks for long, and you already think whatever you think is best. You didn't even know how the suspension works and gave wrong spring clocking advice

Oh, whatever.

[General Jumbo01]

Try reading the very first post, key word suspension.

My advice is good and based on 4 years of University specialising in Automotive design rather than owning several T34s. There just no reasoning with you. Always there, always right. Not.

[Son of a gun-ner]

Try reading the very first post, key word suspension.

The word, but no explanation of why he wasn't happy with it.
So, you don't think knowing the difference of suspension types helps with giving correct advice?

With your background, you should understand then that with these smaller tanks and their lightweight tracks, even the metal ones are too light, especially with their under scale weight. That when you run them with realistic overly loose tracks with too soft a suspension they can easily ride out the sprockets and cause running problems, especially over rough terrain and grass.

Because only owning only three tanks certainly gives me that knowledge.

[HERMAN BIX]

Have a look at pape 4 of thi section, about 8 up from the bottom
Berlin buster T34 Bedspring
I carried out the travel mod.
Also to note, all my tanks have the lead and last roadwheel made firmer than the rest. It helps keep the shape of the track and assists in keeping the drive sprocket engaged.
Still allows a subtle ride over bumps and the lead wheel deflection does not last too long & allow track derailing.
These things are light, but heavy in places where internals are placed, gearboxes, battery etc, so adjusting suspension stiffness can be necessary to get a level tank.

Oh, you two?
Stop pissing at each other.
Plastic tanks remember

[General Jumbo01]

That was a more reasoned reply, thanks.

I applied the stock rules so the suspension type doesn't change the advice, only the precise solution. Did you know the problem before replying - no, of course not. But applying preload to reduce ride height is never the right way. It's like reducing the ride height of your road car by sawing off two coils of the springs. It sits lower but the ride is rough and the handling dangerous as travel is lost. You fit stiffer, shorter springs with progressive compression which employs tapered rolled chromoly' steel. Not cheap but its right.

I've done it the 'proper way' and, possibly as a result, never experienced any problems over rough ground, thick pile grippy carpet, you name it, high and low speed, spinning etc too. I've also made tiny adjustments to each trailing arm to ensure they align perfectly and added shims to the drive sprockets to ensure their alignment too, but l do these things to all my dozen plus tanks. When they arrive l check they are fully functioning and then strip every working part and rebuild them to my tolerances. That might impact warranties but I'll take that risk.

Mick, I'm not out for arguments and l can't stand trolls but you consistently fail to really read other peoples posts properly, jumping to conclusions and being unnecessarily critical. You're a mod and should be setting a good example.

Peace man! And.... If you would like to send me one of your unmodified T34s I'll be happy to give it a once over. Honest. But l lied, I'm not really a doctor