RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Ok, this was posted on OFF TOPIC. It was suggested it was moved, so it has been and modified too.

After having having almost damaged a couple of tanks while working on electrics, I decided there had to be a way I could place them securley.
I needed

1 Tracks off the deck
2 Be able to reach on/ Off switch

I started using to rolls of packaging tape at both ends, but every now and then I would hit one. So I came up with the idea of making something more suitable.

I have a friend who works with fibre glass and thought if I gave him a suggestion or two if anything could be done.

This is what we have come up with. It's high enough even for my KT with very loose tracks to be off the deck. Plus with the gap in the middle I can get my hand under for my HL tanks on/off switches. I originally thought of 2 seperate towers , linking them has made it secure. The edges have been rounded off so I can't get caught by any sharp edges . I'm thinking of some how even clamping it to my desk or may be even velcro.

So once it's finished will hopefully be able to modify to my hearts content without any mishaps.

Oh, what an absolutely spiffing idea sir

To add to the usefulness of your Work stand I suggest fitting an extended main cable that connects the Control Board in the Hull to the Body/Turret thereby allowing you to work on the internals with the body off the hull BUT still working and you can also change batteries without worrying about tearing out wires by mistake.,
Both Dave @ ---
www.forgebeartanks.com
And Dom @ -----
www.rctank.de
can provide the extra length cable.

jarndice wrote:To add to the usefulness of your Work stand I suggest fitting an extended main cable that connects the Control Board in the Hull to the Body/Turret thereby allowing you to work on the internals with the body off the hull BUT still working and you can also change batteries without worrying about tearing out wires by mistake.,
Both Dave @ ---
http://www.forgebeartanks.com
And Dom @ -----
http://www.rctank.de
can provide the extra length cable.

Nice idea! Cheers

Dark46 wrote:

jarndice wrote:To add to the usefulness of your Work stand I suggest fitting an extended main cable that connects the Control Board in the Hull to the Body/Turret thereby allowing you to work on the internals with the body off the hull BUT still working and you can also change batteries without worrying about tearing out wires by mistake.,
Both Dave @ ---
http://www.forgebeartanks.com
And Dom @ -----
http://www.rctank.de
can provide the extra length cable.

Nice idea! Cheers

Many tanks have hull hatches that can be opened (or cut out and replaced by metal hinged hatches). I am moving my main switch underneath those hatches. Much easier to handle.


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Just about every 1/16 Tiger 1 hull both ABS and Metal have a preformed area on the hull to fit a power switch that places it under the MG/Radio Ops hatch.

Not got a Tiger 1 but am thinking about it

I liked this so much i made my own.
I got a piece of square gutter down pipe, well i had some lying around, cut it to the length of the tank hull. Then cut the top and sides out from the middle for the length of the turret. Dont cut the sides down the last 15mm or it will be to weak. Then cut a slot out the top at one end wider than the gun barrel.
Because its hollow you can clamp it to a table. If your hands are small enough you can reach inside.
Its high enough to keep the tracks of the ground for work, running-in, cleaning etc.
If there are no accessories on the turret you can turn it upside down.
Might make some clip on spacers for the top so its higher and then i can put the turret down with all the accessories on.
Didn't get to play with any paint though.

Im sure the modelers will find other uses for the tube. Watch tower, corner walls, roofs, pill boxes etc