RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Well my SdKfz250 arrived today from Monkey Depot. And was I surprized.... NO DUTY!!!!. I figured out what happened... MD put down a value of $25.00US without even being asked to. I guess they know about customs here in Canada. Anyways I just had to screw it together and see how she looks. Here are a few pics of her as she sits right now. Of course my gun crew had to climb aboard and check out their new ride. Now the decisions start. Do I  build it as a stock 250, or an Rc 250? If I go RC I don't see how I can hide the gearboxes and motors so I could do an SdKfz253 which has the top enclosed with just a couple hatches. Either way here are the pics

rc rc rc rc lol

ALSO VOTE FOR RC,where did you purchase from? monkey depot? I'm not familiar with that one,how about a link for a less traveled tanker? sax

Here is the link to Monkey Depot
http://www.monkeydepot.com/default.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=242
and here is the link to the Armor Hobbies SdKfz250 Halftrack kit
http://www.monkeydepot.com/Vehicle_Kit_Armor_Hobbies_Sd_Kfz_250_Halftrack_p/ah0001.htm
I found them fast and great on their service and shipping as well. I will deal with them again in the future and highly recomend them.... Harold

They also have some 1/18th stuff going at stupid prices - the only trouble is that their shipping is horrific to the UK

Well I've started to do some work on my halftrack. Those who have one of these AH halftracks know that if you use all the track links the track is too loose and just the opposite if you use one link less per side the track is too tight. Here is my fix for this. I drilled another hole just to the rear of the rear brace then removed the bit of plastic between the holes and reduced the height of the rear brace to allow the rear axel to be able to be adjusted. I used 2 6-32 brass bolts and 6 nuts. I drilled a hole in the front brace then threaded the brass bolt in the hole putting a brass nut either side of the hole. Then I tightened the nuts just enough to make contact with the plastic brace then with a drop of cyano secured the nuts on both sides of the brace. I soldered one nut to each brass bolt so the bolts could be adjusted by useing ones fingers without haveing to use a screw driver. Now I can use all the track links and take up the slack and get the right tension I want. Here are pics of the modification

Update:
I decided to use the motor and planetary gears from an old cordless screw driver to power the half track. I took an old hex bit and heated it till it was almost white hot with a propane torch and then let it cool slowly removeing the tempering(hardnessd) then chucked it in a drill and turned down one end to accept a section of brass tubing, Here is a pic of the finished parts before assembling

next I remove some of the cross braceing on the drive axel section, and cut a small section out the center to allow the differential be at the right height to mat up with the drive axel. I also cut a small square section in the floor to allow for the bottom of the differential. Here is a pic of the drive train in place.

Next I cut out a section in the bottom of the firewall for clearance of the differential. Next I will remove a section of the sub-floor for the differential. It will be hidden easily inside the bell howseing and by the trany cover howseing. Here are 2 pics from either side of the firewall

comming along nicely
all the best, ice

Harold, this is turning into a well thought out project, will be interesting to see the completed vehicle 

Update:
I have now removed a section the sub-floor to clear the differential and as you can see it will be very easy to conceal the differential. I'm very pleased the way it is going together as I preferred to have a 250 over the 253. here are the latest pics of the sub-floor, firewall and drive unit in place. Comments welcomed