RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

When you remove the HL stowage bin it also means no elevation unit.
You will need to do something else to restore your elevation .
Real real early Tugers, sometimes called “ Leningrad “ Tigers had no mudguards at all.

Oh no! This elevation issue is serious. Thank you for pointing that out. On a bright note, look what was delivered to my house today:

I installed the new gear boxes in the metal hull this evening and then realized I wanted Taigen metal road wheels, drive sprockets and idlers to keep the drive components all Taigen metal parts. I wish I had thought this all through because shipping from England to the USA is expensive.
Quick question. There’s only two screws holding each gearbox to the metal deck. Should I have used some form of thread locker? They seem very secure but what is the recommendation from the group?

True. This metal hull is such a huge leap in quality over the HL plastic hull. Way more solid and hefty. Right now I’m enjoying looking it over and examining all the solid engineering in the torsion system. Beautiful. That’s why I’m going with all Taigen metal wheels. There’s no turning back!

Hi,
I would strongly recommend you fit "Gearbox output Shaft Bearings/Bushes" to the outside exit hole of the Metal Hull,
These dampen out any stress on the Gearbox Mountings at one end and reduce the "Flex" that could cause the Sprocket to throw a track at the other end,
To help the output shaft to slide through the bearings/Bushes on first fit I suggest spraying a WD-40" product "Specialist Anti Friction DRY PTFE Lubricant" along the shaft,
It also makes a great alternative to grease for lubricating the gearboxes.

Hooray. I’m sorry if this build thread is dragging along but today I received my “aerial” (as you Brits call them) metal bucket and 2 jerry cans from Forgebear. I also used the search feature to watch RC Mojo videos about using the Taigen metal hull for my Heng Long Tiger. My hull came with absolutely no directions but now I know just what goes where and what parts do what. I feel so much better about going forward with this project. I’ve got metal hatches on the way from EBay to allow access to my relocated on/off switch. Those RC Mojo videos are absolutely required for anyone doing what I’m doing. Thanks again to all who have offered advice. The journey continues!

Made some progress. Watching the RC Mojo YouTube videos helped me 100%. I installed the new steel gear boxes and motors into the metal hull. I had to buy two small self tapping screws to properly mount the gearboxes. The base plate had provisions for two screws but I added a third for strength. I used blue thread locker on all mounting screws. I installed the on/off switch in it’s proper location (yes, I have new metal driver and radioman hatche’s on the way) and I temporarily installed the chassis electronics to test out the motors, sounds and smoke. Everything runs smoothly and works perfectly so far. I went ahead and applied a bit of white grease to the gear teeth. Now I’m waiting for the metal wheel set to arrive. Thanks for checking in.

Hooray! My metal wheels arrived from Forgebear! I can hardly believe how fast I received my orders from across the pond but I’m not complaining. I pulled all the rubber tires off and scrubbed all the wheels in hot soapy water. Then I baked them in the oven. Later tonight I’ll spray paint them. This is really going to add some heft to my Tiger. Thanks, Forgebear!

Wardog wrote:Just a note be careful what you put in the oven.
Ok probably doesn't contain lead.
I've heard of someone putting gun pellets in the oven.

So, an oven goes up to about 250 degrees centigrade.
Lead melts at around 330 degrees centigrade. . . .
Pray tell, what happened

I set my oven to 150 F just to dry the wheels. Not too hot but definitely dried them out quickly. I do them same thing after cleaning my black powder cartridge cases.