RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Has anyone purchased one of these lower sections and had trouble with the rear idler adjustment?I realize there is a post about changing the adjustment screw but the problem I find is the wheel is way to high.Any idea's gang?

Still haven't received mine - hope it doesn't look like that!  Have you figured out how to correct this yet?

Mine isn't that high, the tracks run almost level over the rear idlers?

Hey Wibbly could you snap a picture of your tank,a side profile shot.And correct me if i'm wrong but the Idler wheel axle shaft installs directly into the idler arm that is factory attached to the adjustment assembly?The offset is only about 10mm at most on my hull if that much. Even the adjustment arc is but a few mm,locking the hight of the wheel position.Unless I am missing a part(offset axle?)then thier is little I can do to change axle location,or wheel height. Sax

Sax,
There is a small grub screw hidden under the adjustment screw - if you loosen this you can rotate the idler arm. The idea is that you rotate the arm into about the right place and then use the tensioner screw to provide the fine adjustment. I don't have my Tiger to hand, otherwise I'd post a pic

Actually, I think they are the small black dots showing up under the tensioner screws in your pic...?

HTH,
Mart

Thanks for the heads up,but the arms are almost pointing striaght down.So the grub screw will allow arm rotation,then lock in place.I am running 97track links because 98 was to loose,even at 97 the tensioners don't flex forward that much under an even strain.I did read a thread about turning the screw around and that would lock the tensioner in place and prevent the arm from flexing forward.Have you made this modification,also how many links are you running?SAX

I dunno how many links there are, hopefully Rob can enlighten us when my Tiger gets to him in the next week or so... I think I used all of them so 98 would be my guess. I am running metal tracks tho so the extra weight should provide sufficient tension to keep the track on the drive sprocket - I've tried this with plastic tracks and they just keep getting thrown

Also the suspension tends to ride high until you stuff the tank full of batteries etc, so it'll probably look better once its assembled. I think I set the arms such that they were pointing straight down (or maybe a little forwards), put the track on and then applied tension with the screws. I didn't make any mods to the way it was set up, but then I haven't run the tank yet

Looking at your last picture - are the axles really sticking that far out of the backside of the arms? I reused the original HL/Matorro set on my Tiger, and I found that I had to cut them short otherwise the tank hull sat on them and prevented the suspension from compressing. (or is this just a case of the camera lying?)

Hi You may have to adjust the suspension its riding high at the momment ,best thing to do is add the all up weight to the tank and see if its still riding high if so you will have to lower it .

regards pete

The pictures are older,I have tapped the control arms and trimmed the extra threaded part off.the tank did sit on the threads,also I have added all the weight and the TANK does settle down alot.I'm sure I JUMPED THE GUN without realizing how the TANK would sit fully loaded so to speak,I am going to turn the adjustment screws around as this seems to work as a lock for the tensioner arms.With the 400 graupner motors and the 11tooth pinion all should work out,by the way the 480 are to much power and a mounting problem.400 with fan cooled RX-18 is the way to go.SAX  ps i really like your camo paint work,great looking tank.

How many screws are you guys using when installing your gearboxes to this hull.  I ordered RC Command's steel gears and only found one real hole that lined up to the holes in the metal plate.  There's one in the front that screws into plastic but doesn't grab that well.  Should I, or have you, drilled extra holes for holding your gears in there??