RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Shouldn't do mate.
Another thing you can do is loosen the screw holding the Idler mount. It will be able to be rotated around and re secured so that the idler top is flush or in line with the top run of the roadwheels.
Out of the box they are a bit high(track in the over tensioned position) but I figured this out a bit late to change.

The tracks on my T34 never come off as such, but I have blown the pin eyes out a LOT !!

Sort of. Its more a pre positioning thing than an adjustability.
The mount can be moved, but of course once its secured back in place, thats it.

Through digging true more of the forums i found all the brain work has all ready been done. Found more ideas to. Win win thanks for making my job easier.

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I am seeing that some people glue the clutch on heng long gearboxes. I just took mine for a little cruise and every little pebble made it pop and lock up track till i backed up. without the clutch would that have broke something?

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woolenspark wrote:I am seeing that some people glue the clutch on heng long gearboxes. I just took mine for a little cruise and every little pebble made it pop and lock up track till i backed up. without the clutch would that have broke something?

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This cropped up lately under the subject of tank upgrades. Many people here- but not all-would opt to fit steel gearboxes ( with shaft bearings) from Taigen that are configured for more torque. The motors on their premium series boxes are also a bit beefier than
the entry level ones. This is what I did in my newby phase. It certainly stopped the lockups, and (worst case) potentially destructive motor stalls...leading to burnouts.

Steel is in the plan wanted to see how long these plastic gears would last. Guess ill get some ordered up and see if i can pop these. These tanks are fun.

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For as long as the whole drivetrain is Plastic/Nylon your Gearboxes should be fine BUT if you fit a metal component into that drivetrain the law of diminishing returns kicks in, and to prevent failure of any item you will need to upgrade the whole shooting match, Metal wheels , Metal Tracks, Metal Idlers, Metal Sprockets, Metal Gearboxes and If you want to give it that "Sag" that 40 Tonnes plus of Tank has then metal everything does help with that effect BUT if you are going to fight in competition with it then Plastic/Nylon everything is the way to go.
Shaun.

Thanks for the advice jarndice. Ill stick with plastic for the time being till something breaks seem to go fine with plastic. On another note finely had time to mess with tank. Can't leave anything without messing with it. Got sick of unscrewing battery cover to charge battery (lazy i guess). Put magnets on and holey crap them things are strong. Left front posts kind of like a locator pin. Cut top of battery deal out and epoxied cover on. Question time. Would i need another brace towards the back by the motors?

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