RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi Guys

I recently bought a Panther from Mr Del for my summer build. I was holding out for a used Tamiya Panther G no luck there..saw Dels and thought yep why not. It has the Ibu pro installed and servo recoil. I won't be using his lower I'll reinstall the electrics into the new taigen metal lower..haven't decided on metal wheels etc yet. What I have decided on is some Aber P.E, I've put off soldering P'E for quite a while, time to cut my teeth with this one.

How she sits now..I removed the cupola and accessories this morning.




Not a huge amount of research done so far. Been having a good read of the Panther builds on a ours and another forum..I've a fair idea how mines going to look and what I'll need..

What I'm going for..1945 Late Panther G



You can see the camo better here






Cheers

Jake

Nice machine.

Looking forward to your progress.
Does the Tarr smoker work okay with the long hose run ?

Nice one Jake, look forward to it.

Tiggr wrote:Nice machine.

Looking forward to your progress.
Does the Tarr smoker work okay with the long hose run ?

Hi chaps, glad your going to follow along. Be a couple of months yet before all the goodies start rolling in for the build, looking forward to this one

Tiggr, yes works great. I was surprised my self how well it worked.

Looks like a fun build. I'll be following along.

Looks like the book reversed the camo pattern, though. The slant is opposite the photo.

Hi Jake, I don't know if you have soldered PE before but the best kept secret is "SOLDER PAINT" in conjunction with a Butane Burner it turns Soldering into a doddle,
Literally paint it on and apply heat from the Butane Burner and it is done just like magic,
I use "FRYOLUX PAINT" from Maplins, It is extraordinarily expensive but it lasts forever,
It is VERY hazardous so keep Pets Fish and children well away from the stuff and wear a face mask to avoid the fumes,
I use a "Nimrod Solderpro-50K" Butane Burner,
And if you already know all this Well it might help someone else who doesn't.
Shaun

Best advice x tone ever gave me was to get that solder paste.
As Mr Jarndice says it's the only thing to use for brass wotk

jarndice wrote:Hi Jake, I don't know if you have soldered PE before but the best kept secret is "SOLDER PAINT" in conjunction with a Butane Burner it turns Soldering into a doddle,
Literally paint it on and apply heat from the Butane Burner and it is done just like magic,
I use "FRYOLUX PAINT" from Maplins, It is extraordinarily expensive but it lasts forever,
It is VERY hazardous so keep Pets Fish and children well away from the stuff and wear a face mask to avoid the fumes,
I use a "Nimrod Solderpro-50K" Butane Burner,
And if you already know all this Well it might help someone else who doesn't.
Shaun

Hi Shaun

I purchased a new soldering iron with a small tip for electrics a few weeks ago hoping maybe I could use it for the P.E too. I like the idea of just painting it on tho and using the burner sounds a lot simpler. I think I'll take yours and Hermans advice and invest in one for my brass work. We have a Maplins quite close. The Nimrod you bought was that from Maplins too? Thanks for the heads up Jake

philipat wrote:Looks like a fun build. I'll be following along.

Looks like the book reversed the camo pattern, though. The slant is opposite the photo.

Cheers Phil and well spotted. I wouldn't of noticed that, I doubt anyone else did either.

Ha! Been doing studied looks for possible future builds. Guess it calibrated the Mark-1 eyeball!

Do tell more on this paste thing. I've been trying to use electrical solder iron with solder. And, I've had some success and several failures. Does the paste hold the two parts together? When it gets hot does the paste liquefy and allow the parts to slip? How do you hold them together so that they solder right where you want them to? I picturing clamping them together like I do with glue. But, I'm sure that's all wrong.