RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

This is just a quickie to demonstrate the technique, which most of you have probably seen, and I'm sure you guys will do a much better job than I did. Next time I'll use the airbrush instead of the rattle can, but I wanted to show you can do this with just about any paint delivery system. By the time she gets the rest of the paint, the touch up, the wash & weathering, it will be a whole new ballgame. The whole point is, you can have decent lookin' painted stars pretty easily. You can do the same thing with the circle-less stars, and this one will still get a clear flat coat. If anyone wants to see it, I suppose I could video the stars on the turret, which will be next.

And this Sherman, Hot Nancy, will be my next little project, taking a $90 HL Sherman and detailing it into a shelf queen. A Shelf Queen that drives, without $400 worth of metal.

I'd like the finished tank to look like she just came off the boat after D Day, but I'm not sure if they painted anything on them until they were across the Channel.



Hope that helps.

Using "Clear Decal" paper in my Dot Matrix Printer means I am able to make my own "Decals" But as anyone doing it knows the biggest failing is the inability to Print White Decals because finding White ink cartridges for a printer is almost impossible,
So Gary's solution is a work of genius,
Thank you my hero.
Shaun.

Well done Gary! Great idea for painting without the need for buying a stencil kit.

Cool solution Gary, nice looking results

jarndice wrote:Using "Clear Decal" paper in my Dot Matrix Printer means I am able to make my own "Decals" But as anyone doing it knows the biggest failing is the inability to Print White Decals because finding White ink cartridges for a printer is almost impossible,
So Gary's solution is a work of genius,
Thank you my hero.
Shaun.

Have you thought about using white decal paper? It means you have to be precise with cutting the decal out but it gives more options with white markings.

Good to see you expanding our decal possibilities, Gary...especially when ensconced contentedly in your new Mancave. Personally, I like the idea of using masks and stencils and spray (or brush) painting for lettering and identification marks, rather than
rub-on transfers. Done properly, I think the results look more authentic, as run of the mill stick-on decals often have a tell tale sheen in certain lights, that spoil the effect.
By the way, you're beginning to look more like Gandalf by the day, you old Hippy Wizard

B,MAN, Hi, Yes I have thought about using different colour Decal Paper but I cannot get the precision that my Printer offers on clear decal paper,
By using Clear decal paper I can space the decal and leave precise gaps for inserts, for example Roundals on my Aircraft,.
Shaun.

jarndice wrote:B,MAN, Hi, Yes I have thought about using different colour Decal Paper but I cannot get the precision that my Printer offers on clear decal paper,
By using Clear decal paper I can space the decal and leave precise gaps for inserts, for example Roundals on my Aircraft,.
Shaun.

What brand of paper are you using? I have the stuff that they sell at micro Mark and it's really not very good. It's way too thick and stiff to go through the printer properly and the film itself is also too thick if you ask me. If you've found a better brand, I'd sure like to hear about it. I'm using an Epson 710 inkjet printer that I bought specifically for decals. Unlike most printers that require three colors plus black, this printer requires five different colors plus black and it does a very good job on photographs. Anytime I can learn something to make my decals better, I'm all for it, so Spill the Beans, bro.

And have you found a better fixative than dulcoat? That's what I've been using and I haven't had any problems but if there's something better out there I'd probably want to give it a try.

43rdRecceReg wrote:Good to see you expanding our decal possibilities, Gary...especially when ensconced contentedly in your new Mancave. Personally, I like the idea of using masks and stencils and spray (or brush) painting for lettering and identification marks, rather than
rub-on transfers. Done properly, I think the results look more authentic, as run of the mill stick-on decals often have a tell tale sheen in certain lights, that spoils the effect.
By the way, you're beginning to look more like Gandalf by the day, you old Hippy Wizard

I have to agree that real paint always looks better. With decals, no matter how good a job I do I can still tell that they're decals. And you're right about the dry transfers, that you can see the film in certain light. I found that out on the barrel of my Abrams. Most of the time it looks great but if you catch it in just the right light you can see the outline around all of the letters. You don't get that with paint.

And what do you mean looking more like Gandalf? You guys didn't even notice that I cut off my ponytail. If anything I'm starting to look more like our new president.

Hi Gary, I am not into my Paper is better than your Paper
I use "Mr Decal Paper" in 20 sheet A4 packs which is .21mm thick, That is POINT 21 mm thick per sheet in an "Epson C66" Dot Matrix Printer, Very cheap but it does the job,
For a fixer I use "Keen Crystal Clear" which is in a 400ml rattle can,
I get these products from -----
http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk
I hope that helps and I don't think you look anything like Gandalf,
Professor Dumbledore perhaps but not Gandalf
I just got a sheet of Tiger 1 Masks from Steve at---
www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk
I shall eventually report my results.
Shaun.