RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi All,
I think I have solved my track problem. The stock plastic drivewheels have no chamfer on the inside of the teeth and a flat tooth top so as soon as they slip a bit on to th track they can then ride on an inner part of the track and ride further along.
I stopped this by chamfering at about 45 degrees or so on the inner of the tooth for about 2mm or so towards the outer edge of the tooth.
so now when the tooth starts to slip the angle pushes it back to the side and no offset can build up and ride the track up onto the tops of the teeth.
due to sunday's rain I haven't been able to try it on the grass but I have been confident enough to put the link back I took out on each side.
Fingers crossed for a dryish lawn tomorrow to try it out!

Nige

Hi.
Glad you figured it out.
Let us know if it has fixed your problem after you try it out and if possible post a picture of your mod.
Regards
Sub.

Hi Sub,
I'm afraid the fix wasn't as successful on the grass as I expected/hoped. It still slipped. I also found another way the teeth ride up on the track link join. Being less confident this time I chamferred a bit more of the teeth of the worst offendeing side - and it got worse!
Doh!
I then decided to fill up the hollow at the back of the suspension arm of the last roadwheel with 5-minute epoxy to stop it flexing and then filled up the rest of the arms on that side at the same time and moved all the roadwheels onto the higher spring tension.
This fixed it.
Whether it was making the arms more rigid with the epoxy, or more likely, increasing the tension so the tracks were tighter, one or both sorted it.
I then did it on the other side but then DIY jobs for the bank holiday weekend took priority.
I'm hoping both sides will now be better.
I'll give it a go tomorrow morning.
Tanks all,
Nige

I've a spare set of unused HL Metal sprockets and front idler if you are interested?

Buy these:

https://www.dklmrc.com/%5BDK%5D_116_Met ... 10811.aspx

And a henntec idler adjuster off forgebear.

Also might want to consider stiffening the chassis.

Hi IV(AC)
I sent you a PM about the sprockets and idlers a week ago.
Regards,
Nige

Hi.
Dont think a henntec adjuster would work on a challenger as the front wheel idlers are external to the hull and out in front of the hull.
Sub.

A combi of Tamiya Leopard tracks ( direct fit! Even the length is spot-on) and Heng Long’s own idler and sprocket fixed the track-throwing habit on my Chally 2. Same for the Leopard.

Next one up for that treatment is the A1. That thing throws tracks if one even as much as sneezes in its general direction.. I now understand why many declared the HL A1 one of the worst releases of a modern tank by Heng Long. To long, too flexy, too thin plastic in the tub, etc. Though, admittedly, the high rpm 390 motors may be part of the problem. ( Hey.. I want the speed to match that gorgeous, ear-piercing jet-cat sound the IBU puts out... )

Hi.
I have the M1A2 and its the all metal wheels / tracks and srockets and idler and gearbox version.
I fitted the anti slip ring rear sprockets and it doesnt throw any tracks or rides over the sprocket.
Its also very heavy and i fitted a Honeywell M1 A2 gas turbine engine sound and you are right they dont half howl...
Sub.