RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I think this topic has likely been touched on elsewhere, and probably in connection with Pz iii metal wheels too, since they look pretty similar to the Pz IV type, but it seems glue is needed to bind the outer roadwheels to the inner, and also the outer section of idler to the inner. This is far from ideal as, if a repair is needed later, it will be difficult to separate the road wheel components....and the assembly will have to be replaced as a whole (per wheel). The design is flawed.Taigen/asiatam metal wheels have the inner wheel attached to the chassis by a shouldered screw; but the outer wheel is (in engineering parlance) an 'interference fit' on the other, and so retention is dependent on friction and tightness (nothing lewd boys...). The chances are, untreated, an outer wheel or outer half of an idler could easily come adrift if the tank is driven hard...or even moderately- I've yet to find out. Maybe I'll postpone that rant until after 'field trials' However, drilling though the outer wheel hub, and creating a shared axel with the inner could be quite a time consuming challenge. Annoyingly, it really shouldn't be necessary, should it? At the price we pay, these parts should have been made better..and of better materials in the first instance. In fact, it strikes me that many upgrade components for rc tanks are actually quite expensive, and if you bought consumer goods of a similar value (£50 digital radio instead of £50 gearbox, say), you'd be quite peeved..and fully entitled to complain if it didn't work properly, or fell to bits.
All of this...of course,,won't stop this mug from buying them, as that's the nature of an addiction
Anyway, has anyone used glue successfully to join PZ iV metal wheels? (no matter the brand; they're all the same really)

You'd be better off to drill two holes through the back half of the wheel and put in screws to hold them together. That can really only be done with the stub axle type roadwheels, where the stub axle is held into the suspension arm with a set-screw.

Also, the original question, I've done two different Panzer 4 metal roadwheel sets and didn't need glue with either one. In fact, with one set the posts had to be turned down a bit for the return rollers because the fit was too tight. As I said in another thread on this topic, for roadwheels that have to be held in place with adhesive, I like the Zap Goo.

I did a whole video series on this tank, Roy. Here's one on roadwheels that you may get some useful info from, especially the robogrip!

Hi Max..video isn't showing for me? Did you move yet? Staying in the general area?

Max-U52 wrote:I did a whole video series on this tank, Roy. Here's one on roadwheels that you may get some useful info from, especially the robogrip!

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Hi, Gary This vid come back as 'private', and is thus- presumably- 'for your eyes only'..or maybe 'M"and 007. Anyway, thanks for the tips, although I'm not sure we're talking about the same sets of wheels. I'll take a pic later and post it maybe.
Drilling though the outer wheel to marry it up with the inner using a stub axle, would probably get round the the 'push-fit' aspect of these Taigen(?)/ Asiatam(?)/ Mr Bean made wheels. Ahh, but that then introduces the issue of appearance. Have a look: Drilling though the outer wheel (seen here in the foreground..and sorry about the hasty blurry image..) would severely impact on the appearance of the hub.
I like the appearance of the Asiatam chassis and cast mouldings. It's just such a pity that they're made out of low grade, poorly machined, white metal...and not out of aluminium alloy. All that extra weight..as you once pointed out in an earlier Max-U52 video epic- one Joe Public could access- puts a lot of unnecessary strain on the motors, electrics, battery and running gear. I'm beginning to think that Tamiya have the best combination of metal and plastic: metal tub, and everything else quality ABS..
Hope you've you've found a decent sanctuary for your feline pals..and your good self, naturlich... away from Top Cat-unfriendly neighbours
Roy.

I use PVA glue on mine. Secures well and not impossible to remove .
Wipe it in with a cotton bud(thingo that goes in ya ears to clean out the ignorance) and dab a bit on the locating key as well.

HERMAN BIX wrote:I use PVA glue on mine. Secures well and not impossible to remove .
Wipe it in with a cotton bud(thingo that goes in ya ears to clean out the ignorance) and dab a bit on the locating key as well.

Thanks Kiaser and Herman for the tips. I generally keep PVA around for woodwork, and other general stuff, so I'll give that a spin. Incidentally, Herman, it's bad practice to to use q-tips in the ear canal as they act more like a ramrod than a scoop (or so my quack informs moi). Instead, I use the bulbous, curved end of a (sterile) split pin to scrape out the 'ignorance', or to collect the ear honey

The video should work now. Sorry, had to go to court this morning for the cats, just to learn I have to go back in two weeks. What a crock. 93 days in jail because I let my cats go outside. Land of the free my butt.

Max-U52 wrote:The video should work now. Sorry, had to go to court this morning for the cats, just to learn I have to go back in two weeks. What a crock. 93 days in jail because I let my cats go outside. Land of the free my butt.

Wh-whaaat?!