RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I've put a Taigen metal head light on my current build. I think the light has a 3 volt max??? Does anyone know where I can splice into the Tamiya electronics so the light will work and not blow the LED? Or, is there another way other than a separate battery?

I wonder if you would need a different dmd unit to supply lights - Pershing/Sherman?

Ad Lav wrote:I wonder if you would need a different dmd unit to supply lights - Pershing/Sherman?

The DMD unit does have the sockets for a Tamiya light kit, but the interior is so crowded already. Two elevation motors, one for elevation and one for traverse, not to mention the recoil unit and the long linkage set up. I'm having a time of it trying to get all of it not to foul when I move the sticks. The Panzer IV was a breeze to set up compared to this. I need to get you a photo up for you to see.

Ah ok. There must be a way - sure someone knows if they work or not.

You always can plug electronic switches and leds to free channels in the receiver. I did it for having a searchling in a turret, convoy lights, a laser diode for aiming in combats, tc etc. Of course you can switch them on and off at your will with your radio.

Good idea rad - get a 6ch receiver

Rad_Schuhart wrote:You always can plug electronic switches and leds to free channels in the receiver. I did it for having a searchling in a turret, convoy lights, a laser diode for aiming in combats, tc etc. Of course you can switch them on and off at your will with your radio.

Yes, that would work. But in my case, I'm just using a 4 channel Tamiya radio. Thanks for the idea, may switch radio systems.

Ad Lav wrote:Good idea rad - get a 6ch receiver

Even better: Get a programable 8 ch radio and receiver. If you use better electronics than the boring tamiya with only 6 channels you might have not enough.

Im using 8 channels and sometimes I need more.

You could use a servo Y-lead or splitter-lead on any channel, and use one the male plug as a power-source. LED's use 20mah at worst, so the receiver won't even notice the added drain. It is still advisable to wire a 100-ohm resistor in-line with the "-" lead of the LED. I use that trick to light-up my RC-Crawlers.

Jay-Em wrote:You could use a servo Y-lead or splitter-lead on any channel, and use one the male plug as a power-source. LED's use 20mah at worst, so the receiver won't even notice the added drain. It is still advisable to wire a 100-ohm resistor in-line with the "-" lead of the LED. I use that trick to light-up my RC-Crawlers.

Good idea but wouldn't the voltage to the light be the same as the receiver is putting out? That may be 6 volts?????