RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I am sure the has been dealt with elsewhere, but my searches either give me nothing or pages and pages of posts. Firstly, what is the best stuff for gluing resin parts together? Secondly, I need to widen a resin moulding using some plasticard. What is the best way to join the two on a very permanent basis. It will be butt jointed and is about 2mm thick.

super glue normal stuff wont work dunno bout plasicard but probs superglue too !

Hi, Richard
Like you I've been trying to find the ideal bonding agent for these disparate parts. Never having worked with resin parts before, I hadn't a clue; but I did know that ABS/styrene style cements are largely useless with resin parts. After a spot of delving, though, I found that the consensus of opinion was that Cyanoacrylates, better known as 'Superglues,' work best when bonding resin to resin. Thus far, as if to prove the point,I've had good results with my Firefly resin project using
Loctite Superglue, and 'Everbuild Stick2 Industrial Grade Superglue GP'- to give it its full title. Incidentally, I've got into the habit of proof reading my posts before posting, as (ruefully ) this damned spell-checker doesn't want to write 'loctite'.. (it came up with 'Lactate', and it's happy with that; but weren't we all once!..or 'locate')..oops it did it again. I had that problem with 'Jarndice' and 'Jaundice' too....anyway, you get the point.
I'm guessing that most quality superglues will do the trick
As for resin on ABS, now that is a sticky one.. .. I'd like to reinforce my model with Plasticard and/or fibre glass, and it appears that you need Epoxy resins for that. Someone suggested that Evo-stik Impact worked well, but I have yet to try that. Annoyingly, I still have appliqué skin armour to remove from my fingers from the superglue session, so the Epoxy trial will wait a day or two.
Should you find the ideal bonding agent, and brand, please let us know..
Roy.

I'm still trying to stick raisins together....

wibblywobbly wrote:I'm still trying to stick raisins together....

Had me worried there. I checked my post and title for spellcheck errors.

Hi
For my penny worth I use a product called ZAP a Gap (medium) its a form of super glue. And I have used it to glue Styrene to resin and also plastic card to resin.
It also works for me in glueing some parts that I cast using the resin from Fast Glass fibre glass repair kit.
So far the only failure I have had is the glued joint is okay but the material either side of the joint has failed.
If this helps you.
Denzil

Thanks to everyone. I've ordered up a bottle of Zap a Gap and willsaee how it goes.

Superglue works when parts pull and push period, Always remember superglue has no shearing strength ie sideways push and pull on the joint.
Epoxies work but you need to scuff the surfaces well to give the epoxie something to grab onto.
when doing resin parts I always try to drill a small hole and put in a dowel of some kind, it really helps the epoxie hold things together

FreakyDude wrote:Superglue works when parts pull and push period, Always remember superglue has no shearing strength ie sideways push and pull on the joint.
Epoxies work but you need to scuff the surfaces well to give the epoxie something to grab onto.
when doing resin parts I always try to drill a small hole and put in a dowel of some kind, it really helps the epoxie hold things together

Best answer right there.

The old TV commercial where the guy puts drops on his hard hat and hangs from the IBeam is true. Only if someone tapped the side of his hat with a screwdriver handle, he'd fall to his death.

Static model, no problem as long as it's never touched. RC, you need to 'pin and epoxy'.

Styrene and ABS are glued by melting the surfaces. ABS glue works on ABS and Styrene, but styrene glue does not work on ABS. ABS glue does not mean the stuff you use on ABS plumbing, that will not work.

Polyester and urethane resins don't melt, so they need to be glued like you would metal or wood. A flexible glue that can penetrate surface abrasions. PVA works great for PE, I ran a Tamiya Tiger I with the full Aber kit all glued using it, but if you're really depending on the part for strength, epoxy is the best option, especially the 24 hr cure stuff (usually referred to as 2 ton).

Ausf,
Good morning! What do you think about the new generation of Loc-Tite Superglue UltraGels? I have used them for a couple of years now and while pricey, have yet to lose detail or a part in rough running. They seem to have great sheer strength as pushing on the part or detail fails to dislodge it. Works with resin and plastic ( at least whatever the HL, Torro, Taigen and Mato and Tamiya kits are made of ) On larger surfaces I use pins and the UltraGel or UltraGel along with a dose of the LocTite Weld Epoxy. ( 1/6 Stuart parts come to mind )
regards,
Painless