RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I’ve been gathering bits for this build for a while now but not had time to start it, but slowly over the last two weeks I’ve made progress.

First started at the bottom and installed the DKLM metal road wheels, suspension arms, return rollers, idler and sprocket (well only done one side so far)



I bought an extra set of the 550 motor 4:1 gearboxes last years along with the Leo2 complete metal hull. Which was before the Challenger 2 was launched, but since the Chally is narrower in the tub the 550 motors will not fit. So Plan B replace them with brushless motors.



Installation is simple, remove the original gearboxes and where the screwed down by 3 screws drill then through with a 3mm drill, then attached with 3mm bolts/screws from below.



But brushless motors need brushless ESC and special electronics, but I have IBU3 which can control external ESC. So a quick play around with internal placing of items to see what fits where.



All looking good although doesn’t look like room for a smoke unit.

nice DKLM parts are great and they ship super fast, that's a sweet challenger. Think I am getting one for my b day.
Will be watching this with interest

Cheers guys.

I don't get much time now a days to work on my tanks so might be a slow build.

Plan is kit it up with DKLM stuff and IBU3 and use as a demo tank for the gun stabilisation module and other features of the IBU3.

Ian

Great work matey

Well tonight I managed to put the metal road wheals etc on the other side and took for a quick test run. One side seems faster than the other so I might need to configure the ESC's but ran good for first run.

Well this build is going slow as haven’t had time for weeks now to touch it, but too mix things up I also bought the full metal DKLM chassis



I haven’t decided to have 2 lower hulls and share the top or to get another top and have 2 full running tanks, early days.

Here’s some more detail of the metal hull, nice strong drive shaft support with twin ball bearing supports on each shaft.







The new gearbox also looks rock solid construction, although it’s not compactable with a lot of control boards. This gearbox has a 550 speed motor to drive forward and backwards then another motor to control the steering. The current IBU3 firmware (v0.11) does NOT support this, but the firmware is currently been modified to be able to control this gearbox. So as soon as available I will put on my website so users can update they IBU3.

That looks

Top class and expensive ?

Pm on the way

Iain

Very nice set up, I may have to look into getting my first modern tank.

That is some great bit of kit
Bit out of price range currently, but great to see all the challenger bits coming.

Mark

I told this be a slow build lol

Got finished some customers tanks so had a bit of time to work on this.

Painted the DKLM metal chassis Tamiya sand, not a perfect match to the HL but better than bare metal. IBU3 fitted and connected up to the clutch style gearbox which comes with the chassis. And I must say the gearbox is awesome, needs a little practice getting use to the controls in the sense you get more power in turns compared to the twin gearbox setup where you lose power to the inner track.

Here’s a quick test video. Note I actually have the IBU3 speed set at 75% as found it a little fast when using 3S LiPo battery.



I have also installed the DKLM metal recoil and elevation unit. Since the video I have added a 18U slipring from Forgebear to the turret so can do endless rotation without pulling wires out. I had a some inside information of the soon to be released gun stabilization unit so made sure I left enough wires spare for that to when available.

Only gripe I have found with the chassis, is the clearance between the drive sprocket and metal plate is very small. So when the track tries to ride off the sprocket it gets instantly wedged, with the IBU the motor overload cuts in straight away and shuts it down before any damage how other electronic packages deal with a 550 motor going into full overload I cannot say. But to be fair in the instances it has happened the drive axle bolt had come loose meaning loose sprocket which had led to the track riding problem, I think some lock thread on the bolt should hold it and remove the issue.

Next is to add all the accessories and match the paint work.