RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Got a box of metal goodness from down under the other day, and had a few days off from work, so I took a break from the Jagdpantiger and started on mu Panzer IV. Major thanks to Herman for his wonderful build thread. I used a lot of his ideas and mods on this project. Thanks, buddy!

Here it is so far...

Cut out the battery box and sealed up the lower hull. Gotta try this one out in some water and mud!


Lots going on in the front. New tread plate, armor, metal tread stowage, and brackets for them, and metal hatches front for the hull.


I drilled out the screw heads and replaced them. The screws are a bit over sized, but look a lot better than the molded ones.


Rear hatches and added bolt heads.


Added the bolt heads and metal road and return wheels .


And a front overview.


Still have a bunch to do, but it's getting there. Have to order up the mrtal gear boxes and treads for it yet.

Bill

Hi, Bill I shall be watching this build with interest,
When I fitted the engine bay doors I had to cut off the hull to body retaining struts which meant I had to find a different way to hold the hull and the body together, I used "Neo-Dymium" Magnets, easy to fit and most effective,
Amongst other Panzer 4 builds I would recommend PHILPATS and KTs builds both are full of good ideas,
Take care, shaun.

Wow! You move quick!

Nice work! Great build so far. Looks like you're moving to an Ausf G or H. This will be fun to watch.

I'm shooting for a G, or as close to it as I can get. I've made up a list of mods that I wanted to do, so I'm slowly checking them off! Here's what I came up with to attach the upper hull. I found these neodymium magnets that had holes through the middle.



Thought these would be great to use as I could put some guide pins in place. I used brass as it doesn't try and stick to the magnets.



The orange and black tabs at the left have a magnet trapped inside them to hold the very back end. Since I had put in the metal hatches for the rear, I had to lose the upper mounting posts. With eight magnets I can pick it up and give it a heavy shaking and nothing is slipping at all. You just don't want to get your fingers between the two halves when you're putting them together!

Bill

Just realized that I had not ordered my metal gearboxes or treads yet.

So, here it is, ready for primer.







I tried a bunch of new stuff with this chassis, and I really like the way it's coming along. My plan is to do a dirty late winter paint job on it. I always liked the faded white wash look, and HB's white Tiger has given me inspiration! I'm going to have a go at using the salt paint chip on a primer base coat. Following that with a coat of panzer gray, hairspray, then the white.

Since this is my first attempt at this, I was wondering if anyone could answer a couple of questions.

1. Is it best to airbrush the paint over the hairspray, or brush it on?
2. And can you leave the salt on until you start taking the hairspray/ final color off?

Thanks!

Bill

Bill Hi, A nice job that looks to be getting ever better,
Can I ask why you have decided not to fit TRACK TENSIONERS ?
I am aware that some of those on the market are both fragile and ineffective but shop around and there are some quality working one's available,
When it comes to putting on the tracks you will be glad you fitted them,
Shaun.

Hadn't really thought about the tensioners. I'm ordering up my treads and gear boxes tomorrow, but they don't have any for a Panzer IV. I'll have to hunt up a set.

Bill

Bill , If you do decide to go for a pair of TRACK TENSIONER'S AVOID the "Asiatam" parts.
I suggest you go to -
www.rctank.de
They have a well engineered set for 16.95 Euro's which is $19,
Whenever you as an American Resident buy anything from an EU member state ie Germany it is a good idea to remind them you are not liable to pay VAT (VALUE ADDED TAX) Some dealers put it on the bill automatically unless reminded
Shaun.

Thanks, Shaun. I'm gonna check the postage and see about getting a set ordered.

Bill

capt midnight wrote:

I tried a bunch of new stuff with this chassis, and I really like the way it's coming along. My plan is to do a dirty late winter paint job on it. I always liked the faded white wash look, and HB's white Tiger has given me inspiration! I'm going to have a go at using the salt paint chip on a primer base coat. Following that with a coat of panzer gray, hairspray, then the white.

Since this is my first attempt at this, I was wondering if anyone could answer a couple of questions.

1. Is it best to airbrush the paint over the hairspray, or brush it on?
2. And can you leave the salt on until you start taking the hairspray/ final color off?

Thanks!

Bill

Use an airbrush to put the coat on over the hairspray. You'll get a more consistent finish which is easier to work with. Air brushes are also much more cost efficient in the long run - depending on the one you use anyway.

The salt has to either be dissolved or be rubbed off gently for the effect to work. Placing it under a few layers may be a pain to remove depending on the paint you've used, how long it's been left to cure and how thick it's been put on. With that sort of thing, it's best to experiment i.e. buy a cheap HL turret of ebay and try the effect your trying to do on that rather than on your model.

Look for the Weathering Magazine issue on chipping. It goes into allot of detail on precisely what you're trying to achieve using all the different methods and products available.