My Tiger Tank 1 (Early model, full option) Build.

[silversurfer1947]

A couple of photo of part of the cause of my frustration for the last few days. It is the Tamiya tool box, reworked with Aber PE fittings. It still needs a final coat of paint. It does not bear too close inspection, but I think will pass muster from a distance. My excuse is that is been abused by the crew!

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The other cause is the mounting frame, which still needs a little work. Looking at it, you would wonder how something with so few parts could be such a pain in the derriere.

[silversurfer1947]

I have summoned up sufficient courage to tackle the rear fenders. So far so good. However, I could do with some advice from anyone who has had experience with the Aber 16005 Early Tiger rear fender set. Parts no 4, of which there are a lot, are supposed to represent bolt ends, with a nut on them. To achieve this effect, the instruction say "press on the recesses on the underside using a ball point pen", to push out the other side. I find this much too big.

Can someone tell me what is the best thing to use as a punch of some sort? Obviously, it can not be pointed as this will punch straight through. It also need to have a small cross section. I did think of a drill bit, but not sure about it. Also, what is the best surface to rest the etch on to allow the brass to be pushed out? Any help would be most welcome. The fenders are the last major assembly to be completed.

I know these are very basic questions, but I would rather ask and look a bit stupid than experiment and cock it up (For non-Englishmen, this is a technical expression, meaning to get it wrong). They are too expensive to mess up.

[jarndice]

Richard, The drill bit sounds fine, of course you would need to reverse it and ensure it is the right fit.
When working with PE I have a baulk of wood to hand so that in this case I would knock a hollow in the wood wide and deep enough to allow for the development of the assembly,
Then with the PE in place over the hollow, a reasonable bang on the drill tip (it being encased in a cover such as a marker pen cap) and hopefully job done,
The baulk of wood has other uses such as allowing the preassembly of fenders using dressmakers pins to get everything alighned (You push the pins through the relevant holes in the fender into the wood) then you bring the hinged section alongside and fix the hinges and slide bolt again using dressmakers pins,
When I use PE to make fenders I always back the metal with cut to size 1mm Plasticard superglued in place. Once you have located the fender on the wood having drilled through the metal & Plasticard sandwich with two or three pins, you can then confidently drill all the other holes in both the fender the hinged section and the slide bolt locating position,putting a pin in each hole as you go along
I NEVER repeat NEVER use "ABER/VOYAGER" hinges or slide bolts they are both of them disasters ,
Find a dolls house accessories on line store for both the hinges and the slide bolts, they come preassembled.
shaun.

[silversurfer1947]

Thanks Shaun. I had thought of a dolls' house miniature piano hinge, but was unable to find anything before. I have had another look, and found a 150mm x 5mm hinge, which is the right width, and hopefully will cut to length. Regarding the bolt, the only thing I have found so far is 8mm square, as per the photo. It doesn't look right to me.

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Regarding the plasticard, presumably this goes on before the angle pieces are fitted to the underside.

[Ad Lav]

Those hinges look mighty fiddly!

[silversurfer1947]

Those hinges look mighty fiddly!

If you mean the ones on the tool box, fiddly in spades. There were a lot of the parts on the photo etch fret when I started, but by the time I had finished, I was down to the last ones. The small parts had a habit of pinging off from whatever was holding them. They are somewhere in my work room, but I am beginning to think there is a small black hole, possibly a relation of the one that swallows odd socks from the washing machine. Fortunately, I was not going to fit all of them and the tool box is now complete.

[jarndice]

RICHARD Sent you a PM.
Shaun.

[silversurfer1947]

RICHARD Sent you a PM.
Shaun.

Replied. Many thanks

[silversurfer1947]

Photos of the tool box sitting in its cradle. The only things missing are the top strap, which will go on once it is fitted to the tank, after fitting the rear fenders.

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[silversurfer1947]

Thank to considerable help from jarndice, for which I am very grateful, I have made substantial progress with my brass rear fenders. Having spent a lot of money on a blow torch and solder paint, I thought I really ought to try them out for the first time. I surprised myself with how easy it was to make quite a neat job of the hinges and slide bolt on the top of the fender.

However, at this point, I think I lost my reason, or got carried away with my success. I then decided to solder the edgings to the underside. This went well, but I had forgotten one essential piece of knowledge. Most metals are good conductors of heat. The net result being that all my work on the top came unstuck I have resoldered the bits on top and resorted to superglue for the underneath. No photos, as the overall result now looks very messy and scruffy. Photos will appear when the first one is complete, including some paint.