RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Darkas wrote:Hi,

May I ask you some questions?

Q1:
I have metal tracks with rubber pads on my Leopard.
I used Bison super glue (2 second glue) to fix the rubber pads onto the tracks, but they are keep coming off.
Glue was for rubber AND metal, so that must be ok... I thought.
What glue do I need, or what sort do you use, to prevent losing pads?
SUPER GLUE OR ANY OTHER SIMILAR "FAST" CURE GLUES ARE NO GOOD FOR RUBBER..IT DRIES BRITTLE...A LOT OF THEM SAY THEY WORK WITH RUBBER...THEY DO...BUT RUBBER TO RUBBER CONTACT...NOT RUBBER TO METAL...GO TO YOUR LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE AND GET SOME "RED" RTV MADE FOR GASKETS..IT ISN'T REALLY A GLUE...BUT WHEN HARDENED...IS THE STRONGEST "FLEXIBLE" SEALER MADE...THERE IS "BLUE" AND "BLACK" AVAILABLE BUT THEY DON'T STICK AS WELL
Q2:
I have a KOMODO+ installed to prevent the mega stupid track recoil.
It seems only to work with the BB shots.
If I push the canon button on the transmitter it still does the track recoil.
Is there a way to block that too?
SORRY... I'VE COME TO LIKE THE TRACK RECOIL...SO I[VE NEVER MESSED WITH IT...THERE IS SUPPOSED TO BE SOMETHING CALLED A "DRAGON" BOARD...NOT SURE IF IT''S THE SAME THING....BUT YES ...SOMETIMES THE RESULT IS HIT AND MISS
Q3:
I have original battery pack 2000mAh build in with an external socket for charging.
Hidden in the back of the tank, only a 3mm hole is visable.
Works fine, but why on earth did they not include a led control on the charger to see if it is charging and to control when it's ready and auto shut off.
What happens if the charger is charging too long?
NOT SURE WHY MANUFACTURERS TOOK OFF THE LED...THE OLD ONES HAVE THEM...THING IS ...DRIP CHARGERS ARE BETTER FOR THE "INITIAL" CHARGE...BEST TO INVEST IN A HIGHER END MODEL..OR A WATER HEATER TIMER (LIPOS HAVE IMPROVED SO MUCH ..THIS IT THE ROUTE I RECOMMEND)....THINK ABOUT IT THOUGH..IF YOU SWITCHING TO LIPO...DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE ORIGINAL BATTERY...USE IT FOR TESTING WHEN DOING MODIFICATIONS... AND THE LIPO FOR PLAY ...THE LIPO WILL REQUIRE A DIFFERENT "SMART" CHARGER...AS IT CAN IGNITE USING ONE FOR NORMAL BATTERIES IE: NIMH or NICD
Q4:
I have lots of Lithium batteries type 18650, 3600mAh, 3.7v (for electronic cigarette MODS)
Tank runs standard on 7.2v
Can I use 2 of these lithium batteries, (is 2 x 3.7 = 7.4v) linked together to power my tank?
For these batteries I have a full automatic "Intellicharger I4", with 4 loading bays.
And 2 of these batteries take less room than the original battery pack.
I WOULDN'T ...JUST GET A PROPER LIPO PACK FOR YOUR TANK...7.4 IS COMMON...AIRSOFT REPLACEMENTS ARE BEST...HELICOPTER LIPOS ARE OK...BUT HAVE SHORTER RUN TIMES ...BATTERIES FOR RC CARS WORK WELL TOO
http://charger.nitecore.com/product/intellicharger-i4

Thanks for replying...

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jackalope wrote:For your track pads you want a stuff called Automotive Goop, or automotive gorilla glue either one. They're both VERY strong contact cement that is used to hold rubber seals to car body's, so rubber to metal exactly what you need. Red RTV may last for a little while, deff longer then crazy glue but not as long as the contact cement will.

jackalope wrote:No, this......

Or this....
http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-glue

Darkas wrote:Ok, thanks for the info.

I checked the rubber pads and there's not even one bit of glue on it.
They look like they are new.
So indeed, the glue I've used sucks!
But, now I have to clean all the tracks parts... , 332 in total

I'll see if I can get something better, like mentioned above.

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jackalope wrote:The Goop is GREAT stuff, the gorilla glue I had customers who SWORE by it but I never tried it myself.