RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi All,

Just fitted metal gearboxes (not 3:1), sprockets, idlers and track tensioners to my Panzer III and have a couple of queries as I am still throwing tracks quite easily particularly on grass (I know this is going to always be a bit of an issue, but hoping to minimise).

Firstly when using tightening up the self tapping idler wheel screws into the metal tensioners I assume they should just be tightened right up and then slackened enough for the wheels to turn as I am worried that they would work loose? Wasn't sure if it would be a good idea to use a little locktite to make sure?

Secondly how tight do you go with the tracks, the problem I seem to have is my (plastic) tracks jump off the idler when turning. I have seen a few posts where people seem to leave them quite loose but wondering if I have got them too loose!

The last query is how much of a difference metal tracks would make, at the moment budget is being restricted due to new baby! So could be a little while before I get approved but if the experience is that it makes a big difference due to less flex in the tracks I might push my luck a little and sneak it through....

Thanks in advance,

Martin

Ah yes, had this issue with my Stug.

If you have the metal idle wheel, it should run on small roller bearings. I found the outer case of the bearing was fouling both sides of the wheel, on the adjuster arm and the screw. I also found the screw head was too tall to get the hubcap on properly. I fitted a small washer to the inside of the wheel, between the wheel and the adjuster arm. Make sure the washer is only as big as the inside of the bearing casing and does not touch the outer casing. I then ground the outside of the screw down until it fit inside the hubcap with a tiney bit of a rattle. Then looking at the underside of the screwhead, i ground the underside so it almost resembled a countersunk screw, this meant the head contacted the inner of the bearing without touching the outer. If I used a washer, the head stuck out too far to get the hubcap on. You can now do the screw up quite tight, I thread locked mine on too. The wheel should be running on bearings now so should be fairly smooth no matter how tight it is.

As for the tracks falling off, I found this was due to the idle wheel being out of alighnemt. If you take your track off and look from front to back down the groove the track runs down, it should be a clear run down. Mine was out quite a bit. It was the plastic lump that the idle arm sits on and screws in to that was causeing the issue. I filed the lump to take the angle out of it, then used a washer to make the space back up.

You can see how much my wheels were out in the below pic. This method made them nearly perfect.


Let me know if you get stuck or need more info

You might just have it all too loose if they're jumping off.

On the Panzer III and IV metal tracks are worth it since those plastic ones are more fragile than the beefy ones on the larger tanks.

Thanks guys, this forum is great!

I did think that the metal idler should be running on those bearings, will mod the screw and dig out some washers. The wheel is definitely out of alignment looking at it, reckon it is about the same as yours looks in the pic above. how much of the plastic did you file off or was it just until it was flat?

Been following your Stug build with some interest, some good work in a short space of time...

I am feeling like I need to make a purchase on top of this, plastic tracks look a bit rubbish now with metal sprocket/idler. I have quite a bit of slack when you pull on the tracks so when I have played with the tensioner I will tighten them up a bit more.

Thanks again

I filed the top of the plastic lug flat/level first, tried it, then I found I needed to tilt it further back so mine was filed with a sligh drop towards the back. Trial and error once it was about right, I used a washer to make the hight back up.

as for the washer behind the idler wheel, I found a split washer was about the right size as they dont have as big a outer diameter. Just close the split up with a couple of pairs of pliers so its no longer sprung

The metal tracks make a masive difference to this hull design. With the tracks unaltered (the spare track not added) I have the adjuster as far back as it will go and it seems spot on. Was tempted to take a link out if they came off again. Touch wood, they have stayed on now and that was with an hour of running round on the grass and drive way.

When you get your tracks, I cant put in words how much its worth getting some gun blue to blacken the tracks. I was going to black wash mine but this stuff is great! After running round on the drive, the contact surfaces have just started showing some metal again and it looks perfect.

This weekend was a bit manic so didn't get a chance to do anything, will get the file out this week though and dig out some washers, looking forward to being able to do some all terrain driving without fear of track throwing...

I had seen the gun blue effect on some of the tanks on here and it does look great, where did you buy yours? Will be working hard to get the purchase passed....

Something else that I haven't worked out if I had done correctly is fitting the Taigen metal suspension, there were two different strength springs for the shock absorbers and I have put the weaker springs at the back but can't for the life of me work our if that is right, anyone done it and know what is right/wrong?

Thanks again

Hey dude, I get my gun bluing solution of ebay ' Birchwood casey' it is, as for the springs do you mean the coil springs on the absorbers or the springs that mount in the suspension arm?

Thanks, will take a look on ebay, the springs in the shock absorbers are the ones I am talking about, seemed odd that there were two different strengths.

It's because usually with the weight of metal gearboxes in the front you need stronger springs to maintain the ride height etc. How that helps

Hi Guys,

Actually got some time to play with the Panzer this weekend and think I have sorted the idler mount, looking much straighter now!



Still managed to throw the track on gravel pretty quickly however I am still on plastic tracks which I am guessing is now the big problem, tried tightening them up a bit but the weak springs on the rear suspension struts were compressing so loosened them off again. Guessing a lot of trial and error with tension!