RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

It's $70 the pair. Says it fits Heng long,,,Does anyone have these, if so, are they better? Or would they be better for some reason? And how? What are they for - speed, torque, quiet, ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taigen-5-1-rati ... 2c94e11049

The 5:1 would definitely slow the tank down. However I caution you if you want ball bearings, I think these only have bushings on the shafts. I read this somewhere but I couldn't find the article for you. I would ask the seller and do some Taigen research if you are after ball bearing gear boxes. I'll keep looking for that article also.

Joe

They look way better than the standard HL boxes Marc...but that seller is in the UK...you should think about seeing if you can get them from Taigen US ...otherwise shipping is going to Kill you lol...thing is ...there is a good chance the motors are still not balanced

ALPHA

Marc780 wrote:

It's $70 the pair. Says it fits Heng long,,,Does anyone have these, if so, are they better? Or would they be better for some reason? And how? What are they for - speed, torque, quiet, ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taigen-5-1-rati ... 2c94e11049

OK, here is the response from Erik of Taigen tanks. A poster asked if these had bearings and here is the response.

Quote Originally Posted by MAUS45 View Post
So do these have ball bearings at each shaft or just the drive shafts? I would reall like a set for my Jagdpanzer IV L/70.
No, these are the old ones we decided not to go with. Just to warn you my friend, you will most likely need to change the motors. They are quite weak. They also do not have the bearings, but have the bushings. The bearing gearboxes will be available in another month or two. After a motor change though they things are quite beasty though!

So, if I am reading correctly, the 5:1 gear box with bearings will be out later, but they are still going to come with the weak motors.
Joe

Marc,

The housing looks pretty strong with thick plates but the motor does strike me as a little wimpy by the looks of it. I know it is not 100% co-relation, but bigger motors would be stronger than smaller motors in similar set-up, and these looks even smaller than the standard HL fare. Anyway, I just put in a set of red motors from Tank Army into my ZTZ and it is really strong. Tank Army claims 5 times the torque of the standard HL but who knows it is or not. I just find them cheap enough and give me enough juice. I think they are like knock-off 480s, and their black ones are suppose to be 3 times the standard HLs so probably knock-off 400s.

I just swap the motors into a standard HL black metal gear set, the one step up from the pot metal ones.

MichaelC.

Taigen are meant to be doing those later on with bearings. I think those ones posted just have bushings, but when it comes down it it, it won't make to much odds on performance as long as you keep them oiled.

Thank you for all the replies fellows, those gearboxs looked very odd to me and i wondered why they would even make them like that. Looks to me they'd be too wide to even fit but they say they do...another gimmick perhaps?

I just got a set of the steel gearboxes for $36, lowest price i could find anywhere. Shipped from an ali express vender and it came in one week! I broke them in clamped into a steel pan while soaked with alternate break free and even ATF on the bushings. Reversed direction for a while, repeat, for about 20 minutes each while my wife patiently put up with the racket....then scrubbed them with break free and toothbrush, and blew them out with compressed air...THEN took them apart, to clean some more, and to put grease in the output shaft bushing cup. I don't know if my break in method works, or not, compared to what other people say they do. But I am not keen on the idea of using toothpaste, polishing compound, or any abrasive on machined parts...I could be wrong, but It seems counterproductive, like filling the transmission of your Jaguar with outmeal to break it in or something.

billpe, right now i use break free, or even synth motor oil on the gearbox bushings, and automotive chassis grease on the gears (I made gearbox grease shields of course, without the guards what a mess inside!)..that stuff is maybe too thick but the cling it has is amazing. . I'm always interested what people think is best, what's your favorite brew for the gearboxes?

I was thinking that automotive CV drive axle grease would be about perfect for the gears since its thinner and has a lot of other good properties, (and cheap too). For the plastic wheel axles and sometimes the turret circle, I use model r/c car shock oil synthetic, because i think it's plastic safe? One forum member said he uses the thickest viscosity shock oil for the gears, which is probably about ideal - but i thought it would just be flung off the gears after a short while so haven't tried it to see for myself yet.

Some time past I asked what was the best lubricant for metal gearboxes and a German Forum member who builds 1/16 metal gearboxes said he used motorcycle chain lube as it stayed where it was applied rather than ending up all over the electrics, There is an opposing view to this that concerns the potential harm it could cause to plastics, a phenomena I have not observed. I have used lithium grease but that does get thrown around and has better value on axles and wheel stubs, I build bulkheads between my gearboxes and the rest of the hull, they take up no space and save a lot of mess, Just a bit of 1mm plasticard and some offcut plastic channel glued to the hull sides, cut the plasticard to size make a hole for the motor cables and slide it into the channel.This is something you can do to any Tank hull, it also adds a little rigidity to the hull shaun