RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Well finally made a start on my Tiger 1, first go at replicating the welds (will post a couple of pics later)
Quite pleased so far, the white Milliput is a bit of a pain to work with but does the job, just trying various bit of work at the moment, going to tear it apart tomorrow and start on the chassis, anyone have any tips for tightening up the turret play?
Going to go back to a proprietary acrylic paint as the artists colours are far to weak when thinned, I have bought some Revell paint but I don't really think the colour is correct... so I may have to do a mix,
Anyway will be posting progress pics as I go, any suggestion's welcome.

BRING IT ON TRICKY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ALPHA

Tricky13 wrote:Well finally made a start on my Tiger 1, first go at replicating the welds (will post a couple of pics later)
Quite pleased so far, the white Milliput is a bit of a pain to work with but does the job, just trying various bit of work at the moment, going to tear it apart tomorrow and start on the chassis, anyone have any tips for tightening up the turret play?
Going to go back to a proprietary acrylic paint as the artists colours are far to weak when thinned, I have bought some Revell paint but I don't really think the colour is correct... so I may have to do a mix,
Anyway will be posting progress pics as I go, any suggestion's welcome.

With regards to the turret play, I have tried to put in extra mount screws between the bottom plate of the turret and the cog, but what I find is that there is actual spacing between the cog and the turret even if the turret is fitted tightly to the cog. I put in extra pieces of the styrene on the top hull underneath the turret so that the turret can be tighten.

Thanks for the tip, another quick question with regards the idler wheels, is it worth trying to replicate the look of the wide ones being doubled up, the plastic seems quite thin? also when it comes to paint should I bother to make the rubber section completely visible, or take the paint to the edges and just have the track contact areas visible?

Tricky13 wrote:Thanks for the tip, another quick question with regards the idler wheels, is it worth trying to replicate the look of the wide ones being doubled up, the plastic seems quite thin?

It's up to you tricky... careful though...messing with the idlers could disrupt how the tracks run

also when it comes to paint should I bother to make the rubber section completely visible, or take the paint to the edges and just have the track contact areas visible?

That's also up to you... I leave mine black... but it's really a personal preference... with that said though..it can also depend on the tank you are trying to mimic

ALPHA

The late model road wheels are pretty different then the early model ones, if you're going thru the time and trouble to add "welds" then I'd say to do the wheels correctly.

jackalope wrote:The late model road wheels are pretty different then the early model ones, if you're going thru the time and trouble to add "welds" then I'd say to do the wheels correctly.

What do you think Jack....Tricky really needs to post some pictures


ALPHA

ALPHA wrote:

jackalope wrote:The late model road wheels are pretty different then the early model ones, if you're going thru the time and trouble to add "welds" then I'd say to do the wheels correctly.

What do you think Jack....Tricky really needs to post some pictures


ALPHA

Agreed, pics or it didn't happen.

Tricky13 wrote: another quick question with regards the idler wheels

To avoid confusion; the "idler" wheel is the single wheel at the back that doesn't touch the ground. The other wheels are the "road" wheels.

David

Ok ok! here are a couple of pics of the welds I'm doing not brilliant but I think they are OK, sorry the pics are not too sharp, I don't have a macro lens.