RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Just bought a king tiger and right out of the box the gun will not fire the bb's tried everything and can't fined a diagram to take it apart I can c all the screws just alittle worried about taken it apart so the ? Is is there any diagrams for taken it apart to solve the problem any any suggestions

So I got brave and took my tank apart lots of screws and didn't break any wires took turrent off and found that the little rubber tube had come apart. So do I need to buy a new BB gun or can I replace that part if new gun is there a better version and last but not least if new gun am I going to have to sodder wires back together to make it work ? Any replies would be helpful thanks.

Two questions, have you spoken to the dealer and did you pay using PAY PAL? If the product came with the gun broken you should send it back, and if you paid using PAY PAL and you have a problem with the dealer then tell PAY PAL and claim a refund. Of course the GUN can be fixed, indeed just about any part of your TANK can be fixed BUT why should you be doing it? DEALERS problem let them fix it! Good luck. shaun

Zmader22 wrote:So I got brave and took my tank apart lots of screws and didn't break any wires took turrent off and found that the little rubber tube had come apart. So do I need to buy a new BB gun or can I replace that part if new gun is there a better version and last but not least if new gun am I going to have to sodder wires back together to make it work ? Any replies would be helpful thanks.

Hello Z .... That little rubber is called the Hop up "BUCKING"....so it was split open? you can get a replacement from an airsoft shop... most tank vendors don't carry that piece
Does it look like this?

This is the link for a pretty good online shop....though you being in Nebraska might have one close by ...don't get confused by the color...just get the rubber one... the colored are super high performance for guns shooting over 400 fps tank guns don't get anywhere near that ...and don't worry about the brass ring...that is for airsoft guns only... it serves as a barrel stabilizer / hard seal for the hop ups
http://www.evike.com/index.php?cPath=28_24_71_368

They aren't that expensive....so really the choice is yours..... Shaun has good advice about contacting the vendor...see what they will do ... then as a last resort...if costs are higher sending the tank back...just replace the bucking

ALPHA

Buy the new Taigen shooting unit, better seal design, more top spin, more powerful (longer spring)....cheap. The feed section where the nozzle slides is better. They are more accurate and when the tank stops shooting BB's it's because it's empty, haven't had a *miss fire yet!
The new ones are black and some clear plastic bits and has Taigen cast in the side. Have these in all my tanks now, I added the spring spacer from the previous VsPro units that where installed. "I think" the motor is better too, the magnets seem more powerful -as the rotation by fingers is stronger pole to pole.

The KT will shoot worse then most of the other tanks due to the longer barrel. You'll notice there two hop-up holes instead of the normal single -?making up for the added barrel volume?.
I bought an extra turret assy to experiment.
I've drilled out 3.5 inches and inserted a 6.03mm barrel, helped some, now in the process of continuing the 6.03 barrel (brass, easy to work with and cheap) all the way to the muzzle break...had to order a 9mm x 0.75mm die for the muzzle break. Will tapper the new barrel before cutting the threads. May even try adapting the T72/KT VsPro shooting units as the larger chamber/piston -volume/stroke (different feed and mounting) FYI: 5.6cc vs 3.1cc's. Why the effort...can't have the L71 be the weakest of my collection ...I'm sounding like hitler!

*barrels may move over time. Using a little plumbers teflon tape around the barrel end that is inserted in the firing unit helps with this problem.

I agree dealers problem let them deal with it have Been trying to call them and even left a message and have had no reply back and if this is a common problem and is going to continue to be a problem and there is a better gun out that will fit my tank that mite be the better option and thanks for all the help just started this hobby and looks fun yet more to it then I thought

The bucking was all bunched and split in the little opening on the gun I did not take the gun apart it was getting late and I did look at the site u gave me there is a lot on there is there a certain one I have to get if it comes down to that new to this so I'm kinda working blinded

Zmader22 wrote:Just bought a king tiger and right out of the box the gun will not fire the bb's tried everything and can't fined a diagram to take it apart I can c all the screws just alittle worried about taken it apart so the ? Is is there any diagrams for taken it apart to solve the problem any any suggestions

Looks long and intensive it's not...the act is less wordy. Once you do it you'll feel better about running your tank.

1) 8 screws (Phillips/cross heads) holding the upper hull to lower, 6 are in recessed holes, 2 are at the rear of the sponsons just forward of the rear mud flaps.
2) Lift upper hull a few inches and unplug the 2 cables from the mfu side.
3) Flip upper hull/turret assy. over, unplug the plug that has 3 wires from the hull I/O board, you should have 3 cables that are lose now.
4) Remove the 5 screws holding the white turret ring gear and remove ring gear.
The turret now can be dissembled.
5) Remove the 8 recessed screws. Set the turret "floor" aside.
6)Remove the 2 screws that are holding the front face of the turret and mantel. One is under the fire warning LED and the other is on the opposite side.
note: there is an elevation spring under the shooting unit.
7) Slide the complete gun assy. forward. The unit will pop up from the elevation spring as soon as the "tang" clears the elevation cam.
7a) This doesn't have to be performed but gives you more work freedom...
-remove the screw on the shooting unit that holds a cover that hold the wires and motor in place. From the other side push the motor out, use a pusher (Phillips screw driver) that has a smaller diameter then the brass gear on the motor shaft. This will keep from damaging the plastic gears.
-reinstalling: press motor in while watching gear end, making sure gears align, I use dikes/side cutters on the shaft that sticks out on the bell end too turn the shaft.
8 ) Remove the two screws on the shooting unit holder -front of the unit, it's green.
9) Pull the shooting unit off the barrel, can take some effort. step 7a helps here.
9a) HL KT specific. Checking the barrel location in its mounting.
a. check tightness of the barrel set screw, can be seen from bottom between unit holder and turret face.
b. loosen set screw.
c. push barrel back as far it will go...visualize it going deeper into the shooting unit.
d. while holding step c pressure tighten set crew...not much torque needed here.
Following is what has always worked for me...
10) Put a "little" teflon tape on the barrel end. Degrease barrel outer surface first.
11*) Reinsert barrel into the shooting unit, try not to twist, trying to use very smooth force.
12) Reverse step 8.
Test firing.
13) Rig upper hull so you can attach all wires normally this mean upper hull upside down laying on lower hull, rags in-between so no scratches occur.
14) Manual feed single BB's.
15) Works fine, reassemble. Don't use German torque** -coarse steel screws into plastic, they may have felt very tight when removed, that's because the screws self tapped and the cut material bits work as a locking mechanism.
16) If not working to spec.
a. cycle unit till the breach is open, done by moving the joy sick for short durations.
b. from the front of the shooting unit, use tweezers to pull the seal too the edge of the shoot unit, making sure its squared up in the tube.
c. re-due step 10, now put a little "pure silicone lube" (no petroleum) on the barrel face that contacts the seal.
d. step 11...step 15.

*If you do upgrade to a Taigen shooting unit and don't solder, do step 7a and reuse the original motor, the Taigen needs two wires solder -one to the LED and one to the switch. Using the original motor and wiring is still going to be a upgrade.

While you have your tank open check the lube on the gears, had a T-34 with no lube.

**German torque: "good and tight" said with heavy German accent "gude-n-tight".

Zmader22 wrote:The bucking was all bunched and split in the little opening on the gun I did not take the gun apart it was getting late and I did look at the site u gave me there is a lot on there is there a certain one I have to get if it comes down to that new to this so I'm kinda working blinded

Well how bad is the split..can you still pull it tight over the barrel? ...if you can trim out the split with a razor blade without damaging the bucking... it should still work...the bucking really doesn't do anything on tanks...it's pretty much there to act as a seal and separate the bbs as they flow into the gun.... if there isn't a problem with the gun itself... don't mess with it ...get some good silicon lube and put a shot in the front air nozzle ...one shot only...less than a second's worth...reassemble everything and test fire the gun


ALPHA

Hi, I have a King Tiger with a Porsche turret. It's the BB version but does not work at all, I have taken the upper hull off and noticed two wires with connectors coming from the BB unit that are not attached to anything!! They consist of two wires and three wires, can anyone tell me where they connect to or where to look to solve the problem.

Thanks