RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I was looking at the ABER tow ropes and clamps that WWW.welshdragonmodels.com are showing for a Tiger 1 on their website, the photographs clearly show the ends of the tow ropes are being clamped in position over the engine covers and not as I assumed was the right place beside the drivers and radio operators hatches, does anyone have any useful input for this or is it an error. shaun

I believe those are the original positions for the tow ropes, as in the initial design which was changed later on.

Hi Shaun,

As billpe says I believe this was a feature of some of the earliest Tigers.

Check out Toms Norbert build, as this has the tow ropes stowed that way.

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=11918

Scaliwag beat me to it!

Thank you everyone, this is most helpful in my Tunisian Tiger 1 build. shaun

jarndice wrote:Thank you everyone, this is most helpful in my Tunisian Tiger 1 build. shaun

Are you doing a first batch or slightly later like 131?

Hi Tom, In general I am trying to build "813"of Abteilung 501 primarily because there are no pictures available of the front so I have carte blanche on positioning tools and whether to incorporate the vision ports above the visor and it dosn't matter what I do with the front fenders, You can't beat cheating!!! shaun

Hi, I just joined and am undertaking my first major customization project. I own a Heng Long Panther G late, with metal tracks, drive sprockets, idlers and gearbox. Among many modifications I have made is to replace the plastic tow cables with a metal set, and I bought the Aber set from Welsh Dragon models. They are marketed as being for Tiger, Tiger II and Panther. My problem is with the main 2.5mm cable which you must first cut to the two lengths required and then assemble into the complete cables using the teardrop shaped eyes, cylindrical clasps and conical end caps. The 2.5mm cable is extremely strong and springy, not really holding its shape at all, but the basic instructions say to heat it when shaping it around the eyes. The instructions also say to cut the ends at a 45* angle, which I presume is to help with slotting the loose end back inside the cylinder piece before pulling it tight and gluing it. However, I have been unable to cut the cable at all. I had presumed it would be a soft aluminium or a similar alloy, but it is actually steel. My cutters broke on it, and even shears have no effect on it, simply twisting sideways and jamming on it. The basically useless instructions show an icon of a pair of scissors being used and that almost makes me laugh considering you could hand a car from the cable provided. To add more problems, the cable is about 20% thicker than the openings in the conical end caps supplied, and even after widening the hole on the cap, I cannot get them to fit over the cable. I have made a considerable mess of the centre of the cable in my attempt to cut it into two pieces, and the ends are now a bit worn from me trying to get the pieces over them. For such precision engineered scale parts this doesn't seem right, especially as the other pieces are to scale with the plastic original cable but the cable itself is much thicker. Do you think I have the right size cable, and if so, how should I assemble the set? I just don't see how I can achieve a result similar to the images of the cables when assembled.

Hi JACK, welcome to the Forum, I make a point of buying tow cables made from copper wire (you can make your own and in the TIPS and TRICKS site you can learn how) because it is far more flexible, because they come in the raw metal of copper I dunk them in a tin of "HAMMERITE SILVER SMOOTH METAL PAINT" then hang them to dry overnight, When they are dry you need to run them through your fingers gently pulling them straight then twisting and pulling all the time until they are floppy like string, Ten minutes work such as I describe will give you tow ropes that are easy to work with and fit on your tank looking exactly right. You can get Hammerite from HALFORDS and copper tow ropes from http://www.welshdragonmodels.com. shaun