RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Need some advice guys.

As I do a fair bit of soldering, I was advised to get a hot air solder station for when working with PCB’s because the size of them reducing in the last decade etc.

But I’m totally confused on what to set the hot air station too, watched loads of videos on the net but all conflicting information. Some say set temp at 300 C others 400 C some say fan low some medium or even high!

I’m using CR44 solder paste which has a melting point of 183 C and components soldering max temp is 260 C, so logic says I set temp below that but if I do the solder doesn’t melt even at point blank range. Tried various fan speeds none make much difference, even if I use 400 C like the video says it takes a long time to work. What am I doing wrong?

Tankbear wrote:Need some advice guys.

As I do a fair bit of soldering, I was advised to get a hot air solder station for when working with PCB’s because the size of them reducing in the last decade etc.

But I’m totally confused on what to set the hot air station too, watched loads of videos on the net but all conflicting information. Some say set temp at 300 C others 400 C some say fan low some medium or even high!

I’m using CR44 solder paste which has a melting point of 183 C and components soldering max temp is 260 C, so logic says I set temp below that but if I do the solder doesn’t melt even at point blank range. Tried various fan speeds none make much difference, even if I use 400 C like the video says it takes a long time to work. What am I doing wrong?

Don't see that you are doing anything wrong Tankbear.... induction soldering stations have been around for a long time... and work very well... having a metal plate to secure whatever you are soldering is a good thing to have ...that way you can hold objects in place with magnets...sometimes the solder doesn't flow because there isn't enough heat to melt it coming off the spool.... it helps to use a low voltage iron to start a bead

Got to play with one when I was into model trains... a lot of brass kits where available back then...assembling them was much easier with the induction unit...parts held in place with magnets made it a breeze...but they were expensive back then ... about 250+ US...they are a lot more affordable now... just don't have the space for it.

Hope that helps

ALPHA

Not certain if magnets will work the components are 4x5mm biggest down to the 1206 size parts so any magnet I could use would be too large and obscure the contacts.

I thought the gun might have been out of calibration i.e. not as hot as the setting, but believe me the PCB gets too hot to touch (I use many hands tool to hold it) after short use so it has to be down to technique but can’t see what I’m missing from the videos.

Hadn't see the videos you talking about but...
When using hot air a trick I use is house hold aluminum foil. Cut holes, squares or any shape needed to insulate surrounding parts, double the foil keeping the natural air gap between the sheets for more insulation -if needed. Kapton tape helps holding the foil down and or use large enough piece so as to wrap over the edge, anything so it will no move from the air defusing in all directions.
Also, try preheating the bottom side of the PCB first, helps with the time the component side sees the direct heat and also helps if their are inner ground/power planes. And also, have a pick or something that is giving a force of lifting the part(s) off the PCB before you even start heating the part(s), working one side at a time too works (even on 4 side parts), once you have a side up, pull the heat source away quickly (seconds), then repeat other sides. Hope this helps. A little (don't block airflow with a damming effect) liquid/paste flux on the leads helps too, give an indication heat, shortly after the smokes gone the solder should be near liquid form.
Hope this helps.

Thanks for the tips Lord Haw-Haw will definitely try the tin foil.

Hi Ian you could use one of these to see the temp ,http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/mini-digital- ... eter-n84fr
not to expensive should give you the temp of the fet so you know when to try and move it.

regards pete