RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I can only suggest volume mate.................my 1 /16th tiger used 4 & 1/2 pottles of german grey and a half pottle of light grey............all were heavily thinned. Tamiya 10mls.
When you decide on the colour- get one pottle for each surface plus half that again as spares.
Yours is an apartment block !

left, right, front, rear, turret, running gear, hull upper, hull lower left, hull lower right.
Thats 9. Plus spare.
I also found that the undercoat you use absorbs a lot more paint depending on what it is. My Jagdpanther was stock sanded paint, my Tiger was a high build hull red oxide.
im sure you will get the colur advised soon but as for volume, best not to run out mate, it drives you to drink

OR, ensure you have the shortest route to the "dumb ass forgot to get enough paint" shop like I did !!!!!!!!!!!

As a Suggestion lposter... if you can get a color chip close to the colors you wish to use... go to a Home Improvement center or Hardware store and have them custom mix your color... you are lucky in a way... as because your tank is metal...you could even go to a Car parts store that sells paint...they can do the same with stronger poly based or lacquer based paints ...all you need is a respirator


Good Luck with the paint job

ALPHA

Tamiya doesn't really have a direct colour for Soviet 4BO Green. Some people use a mix of Tamiya Field Grey and Olive Drab, others go straight for Olive drab, Light green or a mix (these are the names of the actual colours in the range). The thing about Soviet 4BO Green is it was used as the primer as well as the main colour, it was lighter when off the production line but actually goes darker in sunlight so there is a variation you can play with. AK interactive and Mig Ammo brands actually do scale variations on 4BO green if you want an acrylic. Also remember the scale of the tank affects how dark or light the colour is you need, the smaller the tank, the lighter the colour. Putting a direct copy of the original colour on a scale tank will look completely off.

As for thinning with an airbrush, I use a pipette to measure it out. Its not accurate but close enough. Get a clean old bottle, put x amount of pain and y amount of thinner, shake well, then put into the air brush and top up as needed.

HERMAN BIX wrote:I can only suggest volume mate.................my 1 /16th tiger used 4 & 1/2 pottles of german grey and a half pottle of light grey............all were heavily thinned. Tamiya 10mls.

What airbrush do you have? The Tiger I just did used 1.5 10ml bottles of Tamiya paint which was about 1 6th thinned. For the primer I used about 1 bottle of thinned 23ml Tamiya Red oxide paint over the top of roughly 1 rattle cans worth of Tamiya grey primer.

lposter wrote:Well heres a question...when you are thinning your paints to go in the airbrush.....do you thin down a batch and then just keep filling your brush or do you have to make the mix fresh each time you fill?

I read somewhere that thining large batches doesnt work so well or something?

Does anyone know the colour code for Tamiya Soviet green? They seem to sell many greens

p

At the scale you are modelling your Kv...I would say get yourself a touch up gun

The cup on this will do about one maybe two complete passes on your tank... so I would probably mix about a pint of diluted paint...you should get four perhaps six cups
which should be plenty to do your entire tank
If ... you are going with acrylic house paint ... invest in one of those powered sprayers

I think the minimum mix for house paint is a quart..... so get a quart... pour half in the cup...the dilute ...a 50% mix usually covers well...make sure the gun has an adjustable tip so you can control the atomization ...the cool thing about using automotive or house paint is you can also make or buy a texture mix to shoot before the paint
And both paints will last longer than regular model paint

Have a good one lposter

ALPHA

http://www.jadarhobby.pl/ak-interactive ... 38003.html

http://www.jadarhobby.pl/ak-interactive ... 38796.html

these are good sets. Ready for the airbrush. I have used the one for Dunkelgelb.

As for quantity. I base coat with a primer similar to the color I want to use then finish with the modulation set. My modulation set has covered 1 1/16 tank and 3 1/35 tanks and still going.

I always use auto undercoat in a rattle can, I change the nozzle for a TAMIYA one and save a fortune. shaun

If you know Vallejo, why don't you go with http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/a ... ily/17/118. Vallejo 609 is 4B0 green.

I've also had a hit and miss with AK acrylics but the enamel weathering products are excellent.

There is also http://www.migjimenez.com/en/home/141-1 ... s-set.html and A.MIG-019 4BO RUSSIAN GREEN is the specific 4B0 colour from Mig Ammo.

I personally would suggest buy a 1:48 or 1:35 cheap model, get a sample of the colour you want and then spray it on and see if you like it. That is how I didn't end up spraying a 1:16 Panzer III with AK colours because I saw what it looked like on a £12 1:35 Stug III

lposter wrote:Oh crikey.....this is getting complex.

Id rather not use the larger spray things as I am going to have to do this carefully in the house and I would imagine there is a lot of over spray? Plus, Im really on unfamiliar ground with paints that dont have Vallejo or something written on the side.

Ive had some slightly bad experience with AK's modulation set about a year ago. I found the paint separated on the model leaving me with a very strange look. But that was a year ago and things could well have changed (or I may have used them wrong).

I use a cheap knockoff Iwata clone from China or somewhere (judging by the manual) and a cheap car shop type compressor.

I do like the idea of just rattle can spraying on a base coat similar to the finish coat and then just working on that with modulation or whatever.

God I hate painting......

p

Sorry to overwhelm you lposter ....but that Kv is one big tank lol... and like I said ..you have an advantage to use stronger paints on it because it's metal
Nothing wrong with using an airbrush...but I think you will find it quite the task to get a good even coat of paint on her ....and for that one you should think about "volume" of paint... because using those little bottles.. I would think you would need at least a box of color to have a go at it... and that might just give you enough for one ..maybe one and a half coats on her ..think of it like this... with automotive paint... 1 pint will reduce to make a quart and a half of sprayable liquid... house paint 1 quart will reduce to about half a gallon... little bottle paints (one box)...will reduce to about a pint....but do what you must... main thing...have fun doing it

Happy Tanking lposter

ALPHA

PS Automotive paint is probably still the most expensive of the bunch...but the finish on a metal tank like yours would be just as strong as the finish on your car

A model acrylic will work fine on a metal tank, it depends on the primer. There are plenty of example of armorkek tanks using Tamiya acrylics. They probably used the 23ml bottles over a decent primer and a brush with a removable large volume cup.

billpe wrote:A model acrylic will work fine on a metal tank, it depends on the primer. There are plenty of example of armorkek tanks using Tamiya acrylics. They probably used the 23ml bottles over a decent primer and a brush with a removable large volume cup.

I'm sure they will...it's just the volume of paint necessary to get good coverage...paint from a hardware store or auto shop is sold in volume... and can easily be custom mixed or tinted ...pros and cons to everything though... it all depends on the depth of your pocketbook...mine isn't so deep... so I generally opt for the most economical processes

ALPHA