RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hello,

After some time I would like to once again build a tank for me , except that I need a course with the latest technology for presentations . Until Munster he should then at least able to ride .

Since I have a penchant for paper armor , Asiatam the Coelian tower now has on offer , I have built the latest gear for the Panthers , the idea was not difficult.

For tank itself

The Coelian was indeed built hull with a Atrappenturm on a panther. So is one to think that certain freedoms as such a vehicle could look like in 1946 ....

So I 'll put the Coelian on a Panther G hull with steel drive. My reasoning for this is this , that for such vehicles often damaged and repaired vehicles were used and the G version would have been replaced at this time increasingly of the Panther F . I 'm on to consider whether I will provide the tower with a different paint than the tub , but that I decide then during construction.

First off, I build the lower hull and this I have already standing in the shell with me.

Here's compiled the most part .



Most of all components used in the construction are so castors with me accrued remains the Asiatam King Tiger that there is not more to buy in this form. I have not found enough of it to build a steel drive as it was described by Atzemann some time ago in a post.

For the steel drive I disconnect the 8 caster wheels and connect it again with a brass spacer.





So I splicing all wheels together. These must now be only times 24 hours.



After the rollers cure now I 've started with the transmission and the cheeks and fitted as a block in the lower hull .

Edwin, great start and looks great as always. I know that you use the King Tiger road wheels, is that why you need the spacer ? Also, is the King Tiger road wheel axles the same as the Panthers ? I have been looking into this (i.e. Panther F chassis) and was going to use the Late Tiger I road wheels rather the King Tigers. I know that the Tiger I road wheels uses 3mm axles and the Panthers uses 4mm I believe.

Also, I don't think you need the spacers if you use the Late Tigers rather than the King Tigers. What do you think ?

MichaelC

Hi Michael,

I need these spacers because the Panther drive is arranged quite differently than the King Tiger. When steel drive of the King Tiger, the rollers are staggered in pairs with only a small gap in sequence. When Panther drive the rollers are alternately interleaved and therefore I had to 8 separate rollers and broaden with a spacer. The axes have 3mm and fit into my swinging arms. That's not the problem.

Cheers, Edwin

Thanks Edwin....... I will have to reconsider my options. I have both the Taigen KT and the Tiger I late road wheels so I can try and see which one would work better on the Taigen Panther lower hull then. Thanks for the info !

MichaelC.

And on it goes , but for other things . Since the Coelian will be heavier than usual , I think so to 10.5 kg I have to adjust the stiffness of the hull that weight too.

That's why today I first wound springs and not only for the Coelian , but also the same for a few other tanks.









The lower hull I had built for a travel weight of 8.5 to 9.5 kg in weight and to take account of this extra weight I'm building now 4 stronger springs in four swing arms a . Here you can see a little difference of the springs. Located in the center is a stronger one.



In order to gain a general impression of the Coelian I compiled it once loose . That will be a nice chunk, so the size of a KV 2







In addition I have the steel rollers in the later arrangement made ??, since the question arose how they are installed . When steel drive I'll stay by my previous research well .
This is an equally rare drive that was still used in only a few Panther and it is no longer available in this form for the King Tiger .

My Coelian grows and thrives nice and slow .

I have made further first on the inner gear block .

The walls are fitted into the hull , and processes the gears beginning to install .





In the lower hull I wanted this time to make an exact match electronics . So I had to disconnect an 8 cell battery and connect the two halves with cables.



So now I could draw an exact match use and printing.





And even in drive it went a little further .
The drive axles , I had already done and had to just turn something suitable . Then I also have two late idlers found ...



To be able to do with the drive wheels on but I must first mount the rollers and then align control and drive wheels afterwards.
So I first made ??the axes for the eight wider wheels.
These are made of silver steel and as a stop do I solder a small washer on hard .
For this I stretch it standing in the vice , put some flux under the centrally placed washer and put a very small portion of silver solder in the middle.



Then I warm the axis has been so long from the bottom to the braze .





After cleaning the axles , I can now mount the first eight casters.

By the way still runs the 3D printer for the Coelian . Now that I have also printed a speaker was for the interior nor a control box behind the motors turn.



And so it looks tidy, but later in the tank properly.



But really went there today with the drive on. To mount the center rollers at the correct distance I needed first 8 6.5 mm long brass tube as spacers .



So then I could install the missing wheels.



In the late idlers first some tweaking was necessary. This I had to turn to each 1mm on the inside and then they could also be attached appropriately.





The assembly of the drive wheels and countershaft turns out a little more difficult . First, I have the tracks properly aligned with the aid of an aluminum bar and set the exact position of the track and drive gear.



The drive shows up as even of a new page.



Now that I know exactly where I can solder the drive gear on the axle hard I have this first elaborate a bit .





The axis also slightly roughened and put together in the correct location on a fireproof surface .





So I could then hard soldering and cleaning.





Just as I did with the small drive sprocket.





And so now the forces to be transmitted .





Now I only had to assemble the lid of the outer gear. This is completely filled with grease and screwed to the tray and adhered .







Through the triple ball bearings per axis and strong axis , the torque is now transferred to clean the tracks , but first , the adhesive must still dry.

Proper final drives. I am very impressed.

Today I first adjusted the suspension , due to be very high in this case and raised the tracks .





A jockey wheel way, I have also mounted there with me takes a real function.



In order not to have the tub in Munster so naked I began now even to mount the upper trough and the transom . The transom I hang only with two rakes and can deduct it again at any time .



To the upper tray to attach I am building at the front of a plug closure . Since I have to double up the aluminum hull anyway this is the perfect method.
The aluminum tank I bow to the questions and degrease them. Then I attach the upper hull so on the lower hull as it should be later and glue the edges with tape. So I can now plastic plates glued to the aluminum to stick with without the upper hull .





After the glue has hardened , I must cut and cut only the supernatant Ploly . and I already have a plug closure dan the front.





The nose cone also adapt a little and already the conclusion is almost perfect.



Then today I have connected and programmed nor the regulator .



And so I was able to make a first test drive.





Since the tower and some still missing , I have to at least replace some of the lack of weight currently placed a large piece of iron in the tub, whereupon but still at least 1kg missing the final weight.
The test drive itself was without surprises. The chain jumps as I know it at first something about and there is no weight, but otherwise the Coelian works as it should. Only the sound of the video annoys me a bit because it sounds quite different and much quieter in the original .

And it goes on , so at least he can drive well in Munster .

Today, I have made ??ready the first attachment of the transom . For this purpose, first to double up the sides as on the front with plastic sheets , crop and files.











Then I have with " STABILITH express" closed all open columns of the transom to the pan . This adhesive is for ideal because it has approximately the same hardness and properties of the plastic of the upper hull .



I have also done this with the terminals of the upper hull to the lower hull . Prevents the tape in between, that the parts stick together finally and still no gap. So the connection is later virtually dustproof. The adhesive cures relatively quickly and can be in the gelling Zusatnd first almost filling and later simply cut with the utility knife . If he's hard as you can hone and polish the plastic tub it as well.







Thus, the upper tray fits now sucking on the lower part and only holds two small magnets simply held the bomb .

I nich screwed the turret ring to the tower base to end for today.



That fits just like in all HL- models and also the height right through a small paragraph at the Resinteil .



However, I must nevertheless there can still come up with something , because the tower so easy to difficult turns , but at least things look already slowly like a tank from .