RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi,

I finally found time to build my kit. However, I encountered a few issues and since this is my first model I don't know if and how they can be fixed.
I also got a couple of KT upgrades that I installed on the way. These are the main problems I found in my build. If you can, please try to help me.

1. I got this motor and gearboxes http://www.modellspiegel.com/getriebe-gearbox-1-16/ . The first problem is the pre-drilled holes on the gearboxes require drilling 4 extra holes in the fuselage. Am I right? What's the best way to do it?

2. The axles on the gearboxes are thick and fill nearly the entire hole so I have no way to install axle supports with ball bearings. Are they required and I need to find thinner axles or are these gearboxes stable enough without them?

3. My engines or gearboxes make a constant beeping sound when operating between zero and full power. At a standstill and at max speed the sound is gone. Only when partial power is applied I can hear the sound. It's nearly as if the electrical current made that noise. What is it? Is it possible to get rid of it?

4. The new gearboxes have splashed the oil around. Should I just let them run until it stops or will it never stop splashing and I need some sort of covers?

5. On full power the tank goes more or less straight but on slower speeds it has a tendency to turn. Is this a mechanical fault? Can I fix this with the knob on the Tamiya DCM?

6. The metal platform to put the DCM and battery on cannot be mounted because I have an Impact suspension installed. How do I make a new one? What's the best way to install a platform there?

7. The engine is very heavy and makes the tank very heavy in the front. How do I compensate for that? Should I just set the suspension in the front part of the tank to be stiffer?

8. I also got an idler upgrade from Schumo but it allows no movement after installation. I don't understand how this should work. Original Tamiya idlers had springs that were supposed to pull the tracks when loose. Schumo kit is fixed and screwed tight. There is no place for movement. Is this how it should be?

I do apologise for the nature of these questions. They are very basic and you might simply not feel like answering them. Trust me, I spent a lot of time trying to find solutions and I have a few ideas of my own but I'd rather ask professionals. There's no need to break through an open door. Please, share your solutions and fixes with me if you can. I'd be very grateful.

Thank you in advance!

I think I can help with a fair few points, I'll right out a proper response during (or after) the f1 depending on how interesting the race is.

tomhugill wrote:I think I can help with a fair few points, I'll right out a proper response during (or after) the f1 depending on how interesting the race is.

Thank you. I'll be waiting

Bump

Please, could anyone assist me?

No we dont love you....

Just kidding!

1. The facetious answer would be with a drill...If you mean how do you line up the holes, I put some red nail polish around the stand offs/holes where the screws need I go through and place the gear box where I needs to be. Then drill where the nail polish marks. Although another way is make a card template and drill to that.

2. Gearbox is stable enough without them, as it's a single unit it's anchored to the chassis much better with a larger distance between anchor points. The shafts will experience a be larger bending moment than those with bearings as the "bendable length" is longer. However they're thicker do you should be fine.

3. Can you make a video showing this, I suspect it's just motor whine and happens with all motors at low speeds. Your sound system should drown it out.

4. You can fabricate a cover, or make a bulkhead to shield the electronics but of the hull. Personally I wouldn't bother, the only exposed bits are the bevel gears at the front. Not really an issue.

5. On the DMD (dual motor drive) unit there's a rudder knob. Twist this to adjust the tank pulling to I've side (think of it like a very effective trim).

6. You'll have to figure this out yourself, you are the builder after all and overcoming this sort of thing is part of thes fun!

7. Is your tank visibly nose down? If not I wouldn't worry. If so compensate with adjusting the front suspension to suit.

8. Idlers aren't supposed to move after adjustment, that's the point of them. You tension the tracks how you want them then secure the idlers. There are some spring loaded idlers on the market (daryl
Turner makes these. However I I think they're more trouble than they're worth.

Hope this helps. If im to be brutally honest if this if your first tank you might be jumping in the deep end. Your doing some advanced upgrades that are more aimed at the advanced modeler. My starting point would be one of the better tamiyas like the panther, or if you really want the tiger just upgrade the idlers and mate metal tracks. Everything else works just fine or can be tweaked without the need for expensive upgrades.

Anyway, good luck, I would be very intrested to see some pictures/video to see how it goes!