Newbie's HL Tiger 1 pro thread!
Posted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 6:35 pm
Guys,
Firstly, many thanks for the warm welcomes I have received from those who have responded in the 'New Members' thread.
I am going to list a few queries here and thought it might be a good idea if we could do some kind of 'sticky' thread, maybe for each HL model which new folks can browse before they post.
I have spent a few days on and off using the 'search' function and have been all over the board hunting out all kinds of nuggets, but it would be great if a 'one-click and its there' function could be constructed, a bit like the excellent one already in the Heng Long Tiger remedies thread.
Anyhow, despite really wanting a 1/16th Panther, I went for the venerable HL Tiger1 Pro instead for my 1st R/C 1/16 tank.
It's not here yet, I don't know how long Howe's Models deliveries usually take but I ordered on Monday.
Then it begins - the questions!
So, how far do you go? when does the Law of Diminishing Returns kick in - whereby you spend more and more, but get less and less in return?
I initially began by looking at Taigen tanks, but then found that the only UK dealer I found was blacklisted here. Also, I found that these tanks were significantly more expensive, and that for a 1st timer, I was not wholly convinced that the extra costs for what you got '(over and above a HL Pro level tank) were actually worth it.
Let's look at tracks, metal or plastic?
Metal tracks, but what metal? Are these just cheap cast alloy links and treads? Or are they of all-steel construction?
Drive sprockets and read main idler wheels - same question as regards materials used.
What bearing does the use of metal tracks/running gear have upon the standard supplied gearbox/battery life?
So, does metal tracks mean metal gearboxes and heavier batteries?
Gearboxes, nylon, 'metal', steel, brass.
Pros and cons? 'Metal' standard Pro version gearbox with what are described as 'metal gears'.
Hmm, suddenly, after a lot of digging and prompting, we find that the 'metal' is the same cheap cast alloy zinc stuff that the tracks are made from.
Steel or commonly referred to as 'black steel' - what are these? Are these gearwheels actually made from proper steel? What advantages do they have over the cheaper Pro zinc alloy versions, other than the obvious one of being less prone to strip teeth?
Gearboxes in 'deluxe brass', so how about these? Brass is softer than steel, but more self-lubricating than the cheap alloy stuff. They also are less prone to corrosion.
How about ratios? What gives the best scale speed? I've watched countless youtube videos where the tank just jerks away like a formula one car, or spins at high speed straight from standstill - not realistic at all.
Then we get to batteries - usage and experience can only answer these questions.
Standard HL-supplied battery rating = 1.7a/h.
How long will this last under continuous use with metal tracks and gearbox?
What about brand and type?
Nicads suffer from 'memory effect' whereby they will never recharge to their full rating if left uncharged for any length of time - I know this through the use of my old Dewalt drills and my Canon DSLR.
So then we go onto the nimh type ones, which suffer less from this phenomena.
How about lithium ion types - anyone tried these?
So, Uprate the battery to say, 3.3 from 1.7 and how much advantage do you get in quantifiable terms?
And has anyone tried connecting 2 x 3.3's in parallel to increase endurance? (Don't know if it is physically possible to do this - there most likely isn't room inside the tank for an extra battery)
How about best brands? What does everyone prefer and where can I source one from?
Motors - best type replacements?
I'll leave it here for now - other questions about R/C, waterproofing your tank, steel roadwheels etc can wait a while!
Sorry if I come across all-guns-blazing!
Cheers
Will
Firstly, many thanks for the warm welcomes I have received from those who have responded in the 'New Members' thread.
I am going to list a few queries here and thought it might be a good idea if we could do some kind of 'sticky' thread, maybe for each HL model which new folks can browse before they post.
I have spent a few days on and off using the 'search' function and have been all over the board hunting out all kinds of nuggets, but it would be great if a 'one-click and its there' function could be constructed, a bit like the excellent one already in the Heng Long Tiger remedies thread.
Anyhow, despite really wanting a 1/16th Panther, I went for the venerable HL Tiger1 Pro instead for my 1st R/C 1/16 tank.
It's not here yet, I don't know how long Howe's Models deliveries usually take but I ordered on Monday.
Then it begins - the questions!
So, how far do you go? when does the Law of Diminishing Returns kick in - whereby you spend more and more, but get less and less in return?
I initially began by looking at Taigen tanks, but then found that the only UK dealer I found was blacklisted here. Also, I found that these tanks were significantly more expensive, and that for a 1st timer, I was not wholly convinced that the extra costs for what you got '(over and above a HL Pro level tank) were actually worth it.
Let's look at tracks, metal or plastic?
Metal tracks, but what metal? Are these just cheap cast alloy links and treads? Or are they of all-steel construction?
Drive sprockets and read main idler wheels - same question as regards materials used.
What bearing does the use of metal tracks/running gear have upon the standard supplied gearbox/battery life?
So, does metal tracks mean metal gearboxes and heavier batteries?
Gearboxes, nylon, 'metal', steel, brass.
Pros and cons? 'Metal' standard Pro version gearbox with what are described as 'metal gears'.
Hmm, suddenly, after a lot of digging and prompting, we find that the 'metal' is the same cheap cast alloy zinc stuff that the tracks are made from.
Steel or commonly referred to as 'black steel' - what are these? Are these gearwheels actually made from proper steel? What advantages do they have over the cheaper Pro zinc alloy versions, other than the obvious one of being less prone to strip teeth?
Gearboxes in 'deluxe brass', so how about these? Brass is softer than steel, but more self-lubricating than the cheap alloy stuff. They also are less prone to corrosion.
How about ratios? What gives the best scale speed? I've watched countless youtube videos where the tank just jerks away like a formula one car, or spins at high speed straight from standstill - not realistic at all.
Then we get to batteries - usage and experience can only answer these questions.
Standard HL-supplied battery rating = 1.7a/h.
How long will this last under continuous use with metal tracks and gearbox?
What about brand and type?
Nicads suffer from 'memory effect' whereby they will never recharge to their full rating if left uncharged for any length of time - I know this through the use of my old Dewalt drills and my Canon DSLR.
So then we go onto the nimh type ones, which suffer less from this phenomena.
How about lithium ion types - anyone tried these?
So, Uprate the battery to say, 3.3 from 1.7 and how much advantage do you get in quantifiable terms?
And has anyone tried connecting 2 x 3.3's in parallel to increase endurance? (Don't know if it is physically possible to do this - there most likely isn't room inside the tank for an extra battery)
How about best brands? What does everyone prefer and where can I source one from?
Motors - best type replacements?
I'll leave it here for now - other questions about R/C, waterproofing your tank, steel roadwheels etc can wait a while!
Sorry if I come across all-guns-blazing!
Cheers
Will
...so it can be a bit of expense to go for all metal 'transmission'