Used Challenger Strip and Rebuild.

[Jofaur86]

if canon flash is an led? here is the connection to CN3

On CN 3, A and B led flash, C and D switch flash control. Parr against with servo for reversing? I don't remember if necessary? or if the board that manages it? for information, attached Heng Long type electrical diagram, sometimes can help?

IMG_4333.jpeg (24.74 KiB) Viewed 468 times

IMG_0788.jpeg (1.57 MiB) Viewed 468 times

[Jofaur86]

Personally, the rotation of the turret is done with the right stick in the center (neutral) and it is the left horizontal which activates the rotation, Right, Left, there are actually 2 machine gun sounds

[Pavel]

A device that costs a couple of cents and is connected to the battery balance connector makes a very disgusting sound when it is ready to discharge... You hear it and change the battery!

https://aliexpress.ru/item/400082960170 ... 8678085890

[zooma]

I wanted to see what was lurking under this green tape ,

594F552C-4401-4A6E-BCE6-72022E7F53A7.jpeg (804.61 KiB) Viewed 423 times

While I am waiting for a spring conversion for the FS-i6 to arrive in the post I think I will tidy up the wires.

The motor wires are longer than they need to be and are currently bundled together under the front motor cross brace so they can be shortened the next time the gearboxes come out for a service.

I also need to fit a slightly longer wire from the on/off switch to the XT60 plug to give a tidier connection to the LiPo.

Some new 16swg silicone wire has replaced the jointed piece from the on/off switch to the XT60.

I used the old plug because I don’t have any with the little “pull” tab on it, and I think it is a nice idea, so I will get some on order so I can update my LiPo batteries as well to make them easier to pull apart (with arthritic hands) when they get a bit tight.

My usual source of good quality XT plugs has (in recent years) always been Hobbyking - but when checking today to order some, I see that they no longer have any listed on their site, so I have had to buy some from AliExpress instead.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Good catch, zooma! I haven't a lot of experience soldering, but even I can tell a mess.

[zooma]

Personally, the rotation of the turret is done with the right stick in the center (neutral) and it is the left horizontal which activates the rotation, Right, Left,.......

..... I also want to turn the turret with the left hand stick - so maybe this can ONLY be done with the TK24 when the right hand driving stick is in its neutral (non-steering) position? I didn't "twig" this - I will go and check it now.

I think the TK24 was around at a time when it was NOT (more or less) universal to have all the driving operations on the right hand stick with all the turret controls on the left hand stick.

Almost everything that I can find out about the TK24 suggests to me that it is to NOT intended to be used this way (mode 1) - so I have to interpret the information that I have been given and translate it to mode 1 operation to make it work like all my other r/c tanks do.

Mode 2 is definitely the mode that I always used for model cars, crawlers, boats, aircraft and helicopters - but I could see the logic of keeping all the driving and turret controls separate on r/c tanks - and since all the popular RTR tanks come with the drive controls on the right hand stick (mode 1) - I changed to this mode for model tank driving (only).

Although this was alien to me at first, it actually does make sense to keep the drive controls on one stick and to keep the turret controls separate on the other stick, and since all the RTR model tanks that I have came with the drive functions on the right hand stick - that is the way all my tanks are now configured...........even though I still prefer to use mode 2 (throttle left) on all my r/c racing cars, crawlers, power boats, aircraft and helicopters !

I converted all of my Tamiya tanks to run with all the drive controls on the right hand stick as well - not only to ensure that that all my tanks drive in the same way as each other - but because I now believe that this actually is the BEST configuration to use on an r/c model tank - I have been converted!

I have TK50 boards in my HAYA Centurions and Chieftains they are mode 2, so the TK24 board is definably "old school" but it can be used as mode 2.......however, making sense and understanding how to work some of the switching movements is not exactly "crystal clear"...............

[zooma]

................... there are actually 2 machine gun sounds

I really can't see the point of having two different machine gun sounds on the TK boards "tank sounds".

Only one of the Machine gun sounds is synchronised to the machine gun flash in the turret, so maybe the other is to simulate a second cupola mounted machine gun (no flash) ?

[zooma]

Good catch, zooma! I haven't a lot of experience soldering, but even I can tell a mess.

Thanks Prof,

I am certainly no expert at electronics, but I hate to see scruffy wires and I like to get them tidied-up and looking smart in my tanks.

Having the wires too long is another pet hate of mine - but on an r/c tank - often some of the wires are not really long enough to be practical!!

I can "cut to fit" most of the wires inside the hull to fit neatly and to avoid any extra length of spare cabling needing to be coiled-up, (such as motor wires and battery leads) but wires that connect to the board on a model that needs the deck/turret assembly to be lifted-up to change the battery, often finds that the wires that connect to the turret are too short and can come under considerable strain.

This happens every time when the manufactures "underslung" battery box is not liked, and the builder prefers to seal it closed and move the battery into the hull as this usually necessitates that the deck/turret assembly is made removable for regular access.

Quite a few of my tanks end up this way (including this used Challenger2) and so I need to extend some of the wires on most of them to stop them breaking when they are used to support the weight of the top half of the tank during battery changes !

[Jofaur86]

Good evening Zoom,
to have the rotation as you wish? Have you tried inverting the channels on the RX? hence my remark about using servos to identify who is doing what? on mine, I have rotation on the left horizontal handle and front/rear on the left vertical, and the right in neutral, on the other hand recalls to the automatic center, I think that we should not trust the order of the channels in relation to the plate? Personally for a function, I had to invert the 2 on Ch3 and 3 on Ch2. Personally for the soldering, I would recommend the "Thermo Sheath" which is nicer than the green tape (personal opinion )

[zooma]

How do I save any changes that I make in the menue on the FS-i6 or the FS-i6X ?

Press and HOLD the CANCEL button to confirm changes!

Sorted - I had a sticky Cancel Button - now OK.