RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Some more pics. I can see some finetuning that can be done on the figures, but i am satisfied with the results. Cigarettes were added to the soldiers as these guys were chain smokers.
Next step, a final walk around to add details on the tank, including the tie downs, radio antennas, fender Med kit, grenades and slings for the small arms.

Regards, Louis

Wow Louis,

The figures look awesome and really add a dimension of realism, Fantastic!!

Barry

The whole concept is next level.
The figures are magnificent.

Awesome figures for a an awesome tank. Always a pleasure to follow this thread.

Thank you: I caught that mention of ReeDees Miniatures. I did not know about them. But "microwaving"? I would guess that a brief stay in the microwave softens 3D and resin cast figures enough to alter poses slightly. But the type of resin or plastic used must make a difference in microwave times. Do you have any tricks to reveal?

Thank you Barry, Herman, Monsieur Tox and Her Professor !

Herr Dr. Professor wrote:But "microwaving"? I would guess that a brief stay in the microwave softens 3D and resin cast figures enough to alter poses slightly. But the type of resin or plastic used must make a difference in microwave times. Do you have any tricks to reveal?

It's heritage from my static modelling days when i was converting 1/35 kits and building Verlinden 1/15 range of resin tanks. It's an alternative method to reshape resin parts instead of holding it over boiling water. I have corrected whole distorted resin turrets, flat parts or road wheels that way. Now, I just throw the resin part, usually the hand, arm or leg of a figure in the microwave in 15 or 30 seconds increment and check frequently if it is ready. Duration depends on the size of the part and how thick or thin it is, its rare that it goes over 3 minutes in total. Some microwave are more powerful than others and that's also a big factor. The idea is to warm the part evenly so that it can be easily twisted or bent a bit. I have ruined a figure once because i was not checking, the bottom of the legs melted. So, it is important to do it in multiple increments until the desired softness of the resin has been reached, without cooking it.

While i have a post open, here is what i did today, an Aber .50 ammo box.

This is Aber kit no 16047, combined ammo box and ammo with links for the M2 Browning.
The box itself is square and simple, but some parts are really small and can only be touched and lifted with the tip of a blade, with two pairs of glasses.
Its everything that has something to do with the 0.3mm wire that is a bit more difficult. But with patience, a few curses to blow some steam, and a cooler head, its doable. I think it will look good with the ammo belt and mounted on the M2 cradle. The ammo box lid actually opens, closes and the latch on the side really locks it, it's cool. First time i see this in 1/16. I usually used resin ammo boxes lately. I think i am converted already. Once you start using these Aber sets, there is no way back.
Currently doing the ammo belt.

Regards, Louis

I'm totally out of word to describe my admiration before your work!

If you're looking for some small French arms like the MAT49, make sure to check this guy, it does make a lot of interesting small bits.
https://www.battlegroundmodels.com/shop ... ion=French

When I see your threads, I want to throw my "almost out of the box" models into the trash.

Kaczor wrote:When I see your threads, I want to throw my "almost out of the box" models into the trash.

/\
Yep !!

Louis!
I 've been mostly quiet lately but have been following Builds. Your example here is magnificent as always. You bring resin and brass and plastic(s) to their highest . An artform really. A useful link there as well since I am searching for a good Commander for the Jagdtiger Build. Following along and looking forward to seeing this in paint.
regards,
Painless