RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

You guys really are a bad influence! I've just bought a Trumpeter T34/76 43 model. It has 2 pairs of the later tyred wheels and 3 sets (inner axles, as discussed above) with the metal wheels. I knew that 2nd set of flanged bearings would find a good home! I plan to use the Henglong hull l modified for the SU-100 before l bought the Taigen hull etc etc but l can see me weakening and an order going towards Bedford for another Taigen solution. I always thought the T34 defeated Hitler but I'm begining to think it'll be the death of me!

Oh happy days.

HERMAN BIX wrote:

tankme wrote:The SU-122-44 is based on the T-44 chassis and MiniArt Models makes both an early and a late version in 1/35 that could be used as a reference. Hobbyboss also makes one and it looks to be a late version.

Great info Mr tankme, I'm off to google it up now.
Downside is the almost T-55 looking lower hull/running gear position, upside is its still closer to a T34 drive system(from the rear) than the 102!

The SU-122-54 has the wheel spacing between the 3rd and 4th wheels so that is the only real issue I see with building it from a Hooben kit.

General Jumbo01 wrote:You guys really are a bad influence! I've just bought a Trumpeter T34/76 43 model. It has 2 pairs of the later tyred wheels and 3 sets (inner axles, as discussed above) with the metal wheels. I knew that 2nd set of flanged bearings would find a good home! I plan to use the Henglong hull l modified for the SU-100 before l bought the Taigen hull etc etc but l can see me weakening and an order going towards Bedford for another Taigen solution. I always thought the T34 defeated Hitler but I'm begining to think it'll be the death of me!

Oh happy days.

My problem is that with all the shortages of things, what I need to finish my tanks seems to be OUT OF STOCK and all the things I need to start new projects are all IN STOCK.

It's that BUY ME NOW button that's my downfall. It's so easy to "press" as you slide your finger across the screen while you are stroking the cat and thinking about a beer. Just read Tankme has bought another kit too! Shocking

HERMAN BIX wrote:I never thought I would hear anyone say that the conditions here are no good !!

First time anyone's ever complained that Australia's too cold, right?

HERMAN BIX wrote:What about the flat disc inserts like the link to Hagen miniatures ? could that be a simpler option ?

It could work as a plan B for the HL plastic wheels, where you could cut or grind the ribs out. Like the General said, I think you'd need to machine the metal wheels to get them flat enough. I'll see if I can work something out.

General Jumbo01 wrote:You guys really are a bad influence! I've just bought a Trumpeter T34/76 43 model. It has 2 pairs of the later tyred wheels and 3 sets (inner axles, as discussed above) with the metal wheels.

Sounds like you're going to need a set of these, my friend:
Still mucking about trying to work out the best settings for supports and orientation. My heater is on the way, so hopefully next week I should be able to start printing in the super-strong stuff. This grey ABS-like resin is too brittle for RC use, but the clear Blu is pretty much bulletproof; I couldn't break the 2 mm thick test prints by hand.

tankme wrote:The SU-122-54 has the wheel spacing between the 3rd and 4th wheels so that is the only real issue I see with building it from a Hooben kit.

Would a back-to-front T-34 hull work, do you think? The roadwheel spacing would be closer. Maybe you could cut the ends off a plastic T-34 lower, rotate the centre 180­° and reattach.

EDIT: Of course not, the swing arms would be pointing in the wrong direction.

Cut and extend like I did on my Jagdtiger.

Those wheels look outstanding mate, and as for insert discs on metal wheels? Nothing a die grinder couldn’t fix

"Sounds like you're going to need a set of these, my friend:"

Absolutely right! Can you please do them for a Taigen 3mm stub axle - l know I'll end up buying another Taigen hull!! PM me when you think you've cracked the resin mix and we'll sort out details. - and thanks for your help.

Sent from my ASUS_X00TDB using Tapatalk

You guys are all just enablers...shame on you... I come here to get inspiration on my builds and I end up buying more stuff for future projects.

In the words of the old woman in The Princess Bride: "Boo! Boo! Rubbish! Filth! Slime! Muck! Boo! Boo! Boo!"

Be honest...you love it!

" 'Boo! Boo! Rubbish! Filth! Slime! Muck! Boo! Boo! Boo!' " Those must be step-by-step instructions for weathering a AFV, right?

Me on the right.

Spent the last few days trying to print with flexible resin; all of my exposure calibrations and test prints came out perfectly, but every model print would detach itself and stick to the vat. I had three attempts where nothing but supports came out. I was just about to give up and try something else but then:
Could do with some tweaking, but I'm really pleased with how these went. The surface is a little shiny and partially translucent; maybe more fitting for high fashion or fetish clothing than a war machine, but gentle sanding with 360-grit gives a nice opaque matte finish.