RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

jarndice wrote:Anything metal on my builds without exception gets a liberal amount of Acrylic Thinners to clean the surface followed by lots of Etching Primer,
I learnt the hard way after watching my hard work destroyed when the top coat would only "take" in parts,
A lot of bad language and time went into the fix, Never again.
Shaun.

An expletive- ridden lesson I have learned the hard way myself, Shaun I've used Mr Metal (your recommendation) and Tamiya Metal primer with excellent results..

Ok, it's time to correct that wonky hinge arrangement on the Machine Gunner's/Loader's hatch.
. You can see what a mismatch we have here, notwithstanding the slightly blurry quality of the pic..

I have a set of modelling chisels that are very sharp.. .. and so the challenge was not to inadvertently remove the one locating stud, in the badly angled casemate hinge recess..

Luckily, I don't yet suffer from age-related tremor ...yet
Here's the hinge fitted successfully..
Now to make an interior support frame from the electronics...but that's for another day

Since the exterior is progressing well, I thought I'd check to see what sort of problems- if any- I'd encounter when installing the electronics.
The first order of business, as it was with the Cromwell scratch build, is to build some manner of liner to hold the components securely. This approximates to Tamiya's 'Mechanism deck". It's also an exercise in component ergonomics: what goes where best.. Dimensions of a typical 7.2v battery and the MFU have been marked in pencil

Having a 'mechanism deck' that can be easily removed, and yet remain secure when in place, is very useful.
So far, there is an enclosure for the MFU. This will also fit the TK22 or TK24 if that upgrade is ever called for..
Now a support is needed for the battery: Like most modellers, I expect, I have a stash of styrene sheets of varying sizes. This is what the deck came from. The rest is recycled styrene sprue from the Cromwell kit, and other projects. A good tip: never chuck any styrene bits away. Unlike other possessions (junk?) in the house that end up in anonymous boxes in the loft, or garage,..classified as 'could be useful someday'- styrene is likely to be useful, and likely to be used

Here's one possible configuration. The battery and MFU positions are fixed. The new Taigen sound module can be fixed to the sidewall, the deck, or the upper hull with double sided tape. In the pic, it's wedged between the battery and MFU.The speaker can remain where it is. Horizontally or vertically.
If so, then there's room at the rear to mount a smoke unit. Two brass pipes are already in place, in the rear panel, for the smoker. Click to ENLARGE.

Here's an alternative arrangement. Ideally, when a smoker is fitted, it ought to be roughly where the speaker is, in order to shorten the plastic pipes needed for the smoke. Long pipes appear to have an inhibiting, condensation effect, on the smoke...

Nice work Roy, I went through the same process with my Panther A.

Great update. Have you fixed the mechanism deck to the hull?