RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hmm, you have an actual, legible driver control panel ?

That simply will not do Sir, wheres the scale driver with controlable appendages ??


Cut yourself a break mate......................that panel is magnificent

Your build is awesome and well worthy of every accolade this bunch can bestow on you

Hi,

Now, I am entering the finishing phases.

My method is to do this over a few phases. This first phase which takes a couple of hours makes all the difference in the world in order to take close up pictures of the finished model later. It has proven to be most efficient in my case as I am not the kind of modeller with lots of patience, I like to finish my models fast.

First phase is to test the potential areas of issues before investing too much effort on the overall painting of the model. For sure, there will be scratches, cracks and holes that cannot be seen with the naked eyes, specially with all the white plasticard and 3D printed parts I used. So the idea is to use leftover Tamiya enamel cans from previous projects (any color) and spray the problematic areas to see how they look with paint and rework these localized issues one by one.

Main areas of concerns are;

The terrible rectangular hole on the left side of the hull created by the vendor for unknown reason and that needs to be plugged perfectly, then all the bogies, the usual Heng Long empty switch hole on the side and of course the scratch built interior.
Now, some preliminary results after a good clean up with rubbing alcohol and light spray of paint in specific areas;

The rectangular hole needs some fine tuning. There are superglue spilling and residues here and there that need to be removed, some scratches to be filled and polished. Its a tank so it cannot be smooth like a Ferrari but imperfections also need to be realistic.
All the bogies need some kind of adjustment, filling and resanding. The difference in material (injection plastic vs 3D printing) is more apparent than expected. The 3D plastic needs to be sanded and polished as best as possible to avoid this negative effect on the overall look. The screw hole need retouching.
There is a small imperfection at the putty joint of the rear deck with the rear plate, no big deal to fix and the overall integration is good and weld lines realistic in relation to references.
Front bins are surprisingly good. The mud guard attachment to the hull is maybe too smooth.
Head lamps are not bad but my weld lines in this area need improvements. Overflow superglue on all tie downs need to be removed.
The rear deck is not bad at all, a few adjustments are required here and there.
Continuing on following post.

Regards, Louis

continuing previous post

The interior looks good, not many things to rectify. I see some scratches on the ammo bins but otherwise the test paint coat is successful. Still need to install the fire extinguisher when I get them. I think the tread plates are coming out quite realistic, with a few scratches to correct as well. I'm happy with the interior results so far.
The rectangular hole has been reworked prior to the second primer coat.
All bogies have been reworked too.
Here are the results of the second test primer coat.

Bogies have been improved but still not as good as I want them. Some further fine tuning is required.
I think I finally nailed the rectangular hole on the right side for good.
Will check out the gun tomorrow.

Regards, Louis

Louis the build is really coming together. It's very inspirational for sure. As I tinker with the M-3 I see so much I can learn from your assembly and attention to detail.

The "hole" on the side is non existent anymore and the priest looks superb

The welds are very well done my friend

Hi,

Now looking at the plastic and resin parts of the gun, I can some finetuning required and some scratches to be filled but overall, it is good.
As for the 3D printed items, ho boy, I obviously have a lot to learn on how to use this material in resin kit building. I am a plastic and resin guy and I am new to the use of 3D printed items. I can see that every aspects of these items need to be sanded and made a lot smoother in order to integrate with the rest of the kit. It does not look good if not polished, and it is not easy to do so.

I kind of expected this and the parts were only temporarily put in place. I have taken them off and spend a good time polishing them but there are limits to what I can do with such shapes and hard material. I think I will paint them with a thick enamel coat, make the paint go deep into the material and then I will sand them again in an attempt to make them look smoother. I'll see.

I have also ordered metal hand wheels that might be better than the printed ones. I will have to compare.
On a tip from Carl, I ordered 2 fire extinguishers from Shapeways that seemed to look ok for 2.79 each (with a free shipping deal). I saw at the same time that Sherman gas caps were also available, 7 for $5, so they will be of used to replace the ones I made earlier reusing the Heng Long ones from the Sherman hull that I was not satisfied with. At that cost, its worth it. Although difficult to work with, they look ok and better than the ones I had.
I needed 4 for the rear deck
The real ones are casted in rough metal so I do not (yet) see the need to polish them.
The fire extinguishers I ordered (original on the left) were too small so I had to beef them up using a plastic rod so that they integrate better with the kit.
As seen in M7 Priest Walk Around (but maybe not an original WW2 fire extinguisher), the picture show the size required (close enough) and the mounting that I will have to scrath build, next on the agenda.
regards, Louis

Wow Louis that gun looks incredible. The trick with the fire extinguishers is really neat. Your new improved gas caps are really a great touch.

I know what you mean about the white 3-D printed material. Very rough very detailed and not so easy to work with. It must have something to do with the hardness and lamination process.

Will be watching your continued success

Carl

This is quality work, love that interior. You must have the patience of a saint.

Hmm, even with those "issues" that only you know of, because unless you point us towards them with detail pictures, noone else would know they are there. Fantastic tank

Hi,

Here are the fire extinguishers and their mounting. They are important not to ignore because they are highly visible and will bring some color to an otherwise drab interior.

The luxury of photo-etched parts is not available for these so I had to scratch build them in plasticard from studying the few available reference pictures, and try to do my best without spending too much time. I still need to thin them a bit.
I gave the fire extinguishers a long cone going all the way down, matching the mounting arrangement and ref pictures.
Shown here temporarily positioned in the vehicle.
I am currently in the final phase of preparing the model for painting. The next time you see it in maybe one week, it should be almost finished. I still did not receive the idler adjustable kit and also the ECA exhaust that I ordered so I will likely have to keep the back of the vehicle in unfinished status for a couple of weeks.

Regards, Louis

Hi,

Here is a progress report.

The main parts of the Priest are painted. Now working on secondary items. I am pleased with the results so far.
Last view from this angle before the gun and electronics are mounted.
Regards, Louis