RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hands up, I saw the thread and thought it was a Tamy T1 face lift...Just decided to take a look and whoa! Understatement of 2017. Top work, your skills with metal working are flawless.

Raminator wrote:I guess there's no substitute for replicated the construction methods and materials in-scale, eh? This is a level of accuracy and functionality you just can't get in plastic; absolutely stunning work.

Are you using an iron or a torch for soldering? I know quite a few members here swear by solder paste, but if you're applying flux are you using solder off a reel?

Hi Raminator...I think Im just a bit on the OCD side....
I'm using a soldering iron and solder off the reel with the flux. I tried the paste, but I just couldn't get used to it for some reason, and my joints would not be strong enough. So I went back the the old school method, seems to work better for me....

Tiggr wrote:Wowser
Super work Mr BP.
you must have the patience of a saint.

Hi Tiggr....Thanks for the kind words....
Yes I have years of practice with patience....its called 12 years of Marriage!!!!....LoL

wibblywobbly wrote:Hands up, I saw the thread and thought it was a Tamy T1 face lift...Just decided to take a look and whoa! Understatement of 2017. Top work, your skills with metal working are flawless.

Hi Wibblywobbly...Thanks for the words of encouragement!!! I don't know about flawless, but I do know how to cover up my mistakes pretty well...Ha Ha Ha

Hey Guys, HAPPY FRIDAY!!!! This last week I was working with rear ABER PE mud guards after work... I made some progress, but found out I had made a couple mistakes in my research before buying and assembly some parts...Live and learn I guess....Like my gramps used to say...Boy if your not making mistakes...you aint trying hard enough!!!

I mounted these rear mud guard frames and was so happy, because they looked good, nice detail...Come to find out the later model Tiger I am building did not have these frames. It has the 3 metal tabs welded straight to the rear Hull So, if anyone needs some rear mud guard frames, I have an extra set...ha ha ha.... they need a little clean up, but are as good as new. Just send me a mailing address, pay for the shipping, and I will send them. Using a Bosch T234x ruff wood saw bit to replicate factory torch cut marks on the hull. Just turn saw blade to the left at about 45 degrees so your only using the corners of the saw teeth. Then pull back towards you. Don't try to push or it may chip the plastic. keep it up until the area is to your satisfaction then move on to another spot. Don't over do it or you'll end up cutting a groove and it won't look right. Sorry, you guys with Metal hull Tigers...this won't work for ya

I fabbed up some mounting tabs from pieces of Brass PE sprue.

Both sides will flip upwards. Now for the hard part...after all that work,...time to make some battle damage for that realistic look!!! Its kind of a double edge sword, because its a pain to get this PE looking good...but then again properly placed battle damage can add some character to your tank to set it apart from the rest. Its a love hate thing I guess!!! Looking through the photos of Tigers on deployment in numerous books, I came to the realization that these beast did not move over the terrain...THEY MOVED THROUGH IT, and destroyed everything in its path.... Extra Mud guard frames I removed if anyone wants them

Brilliant detail Mr Burger.............I agree it must break your heart to distress the flash-as P.E. work , but remember they are mudflaps, bound to be a bit knocked around after a short time !

HERMAN BIX wrote:Brilliant detail Mr Burger.............I agree it must break your heart to distress the flash-as P.E. work , but remember they are mudflaps, bound to be a bit knocked around after a short time !

Thanks Mr. Bix!!!! Yea I agree with you on the tin fenders...I don't think they lasted very long out in the field. HAVE A GREAT WEEKEND!!!!

2018 AVITAR!!!!